What you need to know about London Fashion Week
Exploration of the British style, more ecologically responsible collections, Chinese participation in sharp decline... These are elements that mark the summary of London Fashion Week, dedicated to the autumn/winter 2020-2021 collections, which ended this Tuesday.
The shadow of the new coronavirus
The turnout of Chinese retailers and media in London was greatly reduced due to travel restrictions imposed by the novel coronavirus epidemic.
A blow to the fashion industry, as the Chinese are the world's largest luxury consumers.
This epidemic has a "major negative impact" on luxury demand, Burberry warned on February 7, forced to temporarily close 24 of its 64 stores in China. The rest work with reduced hours.
As infections exceed 72,000 cases in mainland China and around 900 in some 30 countries, the British Fashion Council, a body that represents British fashion, took precautionary measures with a thorough cleaning of the main parade venue and the putting disinfectant gel available.
However, the participants in the parades remained phlegmatic, since only a few wore sanitary masks on their faces.
optimistic styles
Are you worried about the coronavirus? Does winter seem endless to you? Check out the colorful collections of Serbian Roksanda or British Molly Goddard to cheer yourself up.
Among Roksanda's standout pieces, a voluminous fluorescent orange silk ball gown with a violet train.
Molly Goddard's iconic tulle dresses are layered with jacquard fabrics for a playful, childlike look.
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Textures and volumes is the “new style”, explains JW Anderson. For the new season he wanted "something optimistic." In good Irish, he was inspired by the famous Guinness beer for the colors and design of some dresses.
"There was something beautiful about the Guinness typeface, there was gold, black, a little touch of silver," explains the creator.
Do you want to be the queen of the night? He opts for a sequined Halpern suit with elephant-leg pants or a crystal-embellished suit with matching hood by Richard Quinn.
exploration of british style
In a time of introspection for the UK, against the backdrop of Brexit, creators turned to quintessentially British materials like Harris tweed at Vivienne Westwood, with classic beige lozenges lit up with hints of violet.
Margaret Howell, who celebrates 50 years of her brand this year, stayed true to British style, with a short, bare-legged trench coat, pleated skirts and bow ties tied on tops. A chic collegiate style.
Wearing Scottish tartans, beige jockey trousers and fleece hoods, the models are ready for a weekend at Balmoral, Elizabeth II's residence in Scotland.
For Burberry, creative director Riccardo Tisci continues to revisit the trench coat that made the brand famous, rejuvenating it and making it sexier. In his fourth season, he created hybrid coats between the blanket and the trench coat and boldly mixed different plaid patterns.
environmental awareness
It is no longer possible for designers to ignore the environmental impact of their industry, which Extinction Rebellion activists reminded them of during a meeting on Saturday.
Using renewable materials, 'upcycling' (new life for clothes and accessories), innovative designers were highlighted in a British Fashion Council exhibition on 'positive fashion'.
The big brands are also changing. Burberry announced that his show was certified "carbon neutral" and Tommy Hilfiger presented its spring 2020 collection as the most environmentally friendly ever produced.
Fashion Week also proposed this year to bring high-quality suits for exchange.
Irishman Richard Malone, one of the most advanced young designers in the field of sustainable development, received the international Woolmark Prize on Monday night, while the first Karl Lagerfeld Prize for Innovation was awarded to American Emily Adams Bode, a true ace of «upcycling».
