The secret behind Molly Goddard's fabulous dresses: 13 meters of tulle, 36 hours of work and going "for all"
“I love designing large dresses because the process is quite fast, compared to the laborious task of designing custom-made clothes or shirts. In those cases, you first have to make a toile —a sketch on fabric— and have the models try it on five different times,” explains Goddard. "For these dresses, sometimes we don't even do toile, we go for everything directly."
Each Lina ruffled dress takes approximately a day and a half of work. It is made with rigid Italian tulle, the designer's house brand (she uses about 13 meters of fabric, specifically). His rule of thumb when deciding on size? “Normally, the bigger a dress is—especially tulle ones—the more I enjoy the process. One part of design that I love is creating volume.”
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Behind the theatrics of these striking and subversive fairytale-like dresses hide all manner of intricate details, starting with the hand-ruched waists. What is the trick to achieve the magical (and highly imitated) flight of Molly Goddard's designs? The gathered hem joins a full balloon skirt that is shorter in the front and covered in ruffles, “thus creating a smooth, irregular silhouette.”
Colour, of course, is very important. Before the pandemic, the “dress moment” marked the end of Goddard's shows at London Fashion Week, leaving front-row audiences gawking: walking down the white catwalk, the dresses produced an effect similar to that of the first brushstroke of color on a canvas. “Colours come naturally to me, I guess. I don't think about them much, really," he adds.
