The short pants dilemma arrives at the office
The male knee lives its particular liberation.The influence of sports and urban fashion in the luxury sector, the generalization of teleworking and the progressive relaxation of clothing codes have gathered an unprecedented gesture in the history of man's style: for the first time, short pants entersFashion plans.
The fault is good time, but not just.This is corroborated by the data that Lyst provides, the global fashion purchase platform.If the period from January to June is taken as a reference, searches for men's shorts have been growing for several years: in 2019 the increase was 28% compared to 2018 and in 2020 they grew by 32%.However, throughout the last year they have shot up to 174%.And, for once, the most wanted signatures are not exclusively sports.There is Nike, yes, but also Stone Island, Polo Ralph Lauren, Palm Angels and Gucci.Especially interesting is the growth of tailoring shorts, which have increased their interest by 127% compared to last year, and that reflect the evolution of the sector to more polished and formal designs, with tweezers or tailor tissues, and firms like Burberryor Tommy Hilfiger.From Lyst they attribute it to the hybrid costume codes of the new semi -crescent work dynamics.If the office is no longer what it was, dressing to go to the office does not have to be.
In a way, the calf was a pending revolution.During the central decades of the twentieth century, changes in women's fashion were encrypted in the centimeters that rose or lowered the skirt every season.The limit at that time was the knee, a Rubicón who first crossed in the early sixties, with the miniskirt.Since then, the length of the skirt has lost its symbolic value.The male clothing, however, has been more reluctant.From style manuals, experts have been launching anathemes against short pants, a garment apparently linked to free time.Until now."The shorts arrived in Madrid in the 199.Since its irruption, he says, the short pants has slowly conquered a certain prominence during the summer months, due to the increase in temperatures.
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In that same direction, the words of George Archer, one of the purchasing leaders at MR Porter, the luxury fashion internet platform for men for men."Beyond sport and holiday.Among the best selling, he mentions the models with laces of Celine Homme, Fear of God Essentials and Brunello Cucinelli.“There are many options, from sports to minimalists with high waist and luxury materials.Aesthetics is relaxed, and in some cases it includes striking prints that evoke the optimism of summer ”.Within that boom, Archer highlights the change in work habits."Bermuda of medium length are a very realistic option for relaxed work environments or for the weekend, because they are versatile, feel good and combine with most of the closet garments," he says.The head of purchases of MR Porter indicates a caveat: the workplaces that continue to demand a suit, shirt and tie.The times change, but not so much as to move from the suit to the Bermuda without going through the Chinese pants.
Manuel García, creative director and founder of the Male Fashion Firm García Madrid, included for the first time a short pants suit in his 2010 collection.At that time, traditional tailor shop looked unpublished variations, from the nostalgia of the cross jacket or three -piece suit until the incorporation of the bermuda, following the path opened by designers like Thom Browne, which reached this formula after the track ofSchool uniforms.The option chosen by García Madrid was a Bermuda of tailoring combined with matching jacket and shirt, a recurring formula in its summer collections since then."I use it more as a stylistic resource than as a piece that reaches the street in a real way," explains the designer, whose business revolves around the relaxed declines of traditional tailoring."Throughout these years we have managed to evolve the suit in terms of patronage, color and combinations, but I do the short pants with the aim of selling it separately.".
From all this, however a general trend is deduced: although a majority of men continues to show reluctance to the shorts daily, the tolerance threshold is changing.In Lyst they have observed a curious phenomenon: the swimsuits are increasing.In the last month, searches for short swimsuits have increased by 148% compared to the same 2020 period, and the demand for SLIP type models has shot 230% compared to the previous month.Behind these data can be the need for release after the toughest phase the pandemic, but also the finding that, in the reconfiguration of the body that is the ultimate object of fashion, the emancipation of knees, calves and maletype of hedonism.
