Saint Laurent's familic models cause a great scandal
Sounds' love'porrafael Muñoz (@munoz_rafa) broke us)
We have been praising the designers from all over the planet for a few years to have all kinds of models for their parades.We have talked about diversity, inclusiveness and non -normative bodies to celebrate that the dictatorship of the bodies that we previously called perfect had ended.Until now.The Saint Laurent house, led by Anthony Vaccarello, has broken with this 'covenant' and has hired very thin, almost famous models in some cases, and has put the drama of anorexia again on the table.It is nothing new at home.Yves Saint Laurent himself was a strong defender of thin bodies."I don't think the modern woman is a woman from Redondes. Today's woman has bones, she is pure nerve," he said in 1966. Today, 55 years later, his words rumble in Paris.
The monkey manages to the dress
The collection needed such bodies: all garments are lowercase or cling to the body.All silhouettes are rectilinear and patterns tend to verticality.There is no volume and the boiled sleeves, the flyers and skirts with flight are banished: each garment seems to be a second skin and other times the garment is cut, slit or opens so that the skin is seen.The 'cut out' dresses are rabid but Yves Saint Laurent already designed them in the 90s. They are now checked, just like the necklines in Uve, vertiginous, both in the front and on the back.They loved the teacher and were a constant in many of his collections.
The parade wants to sell a new sexy but ... he doesn't get it.The monkeys are protagonists of a collection that plays to cover and uncover the body, and carry the upper part with different necklines, halter, cross, balcony ... bets on two bands collected ahead with the metal pieces that areThe initials of the firm, a piece that only covers the chest and the navel.The pants go beyond 'pitillo' and become directly into meshes.Only the jackets hide the body's shapes, because they carry the wide and very marked shoulders.
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The monkey manages to the dress at night, but Vaccarello, aware of what celebrities need in the red carpets, do not forget them and draw them with a word of honor or with generous transparencies at the top.
No to embroidery
There are many winks to Yves Saint Laurent, the tuxedo that he launched in 1966, for example.Now we see it with the two buttons jacket, pants that hide the shoes and jackets that carry their shoulders enhanced with a more intense fabric.We also see him turned into a dress and, of course, monkey.There are also winks in transparencies, which the teacher proposed in 1968, to asymmetric dresses that fall fluently to the ground.And to the flowers, to black, red, orange, to that masculinity so feminine that and subliminated.
The matt fabrics dominate a proposal that drives embroidery and applications, and in which the accessories are given prominence: wallet -type bags that are carried inside the pants, somewhat 'macarra de luxe', large ring slopes with the logo with the logoFrom the house and others with geometric shapes, high -heels shoes, very dark sunglasses, colored belts that contrast with garments, gloves ...
The denim asks for a step in an extremely sophisticated collection.The jeans are carried with the high waist, without broken, without marks ... simple and with a seventies touch.They were Yves Saint-Laurent's favorite garment."I would like to have invented jeans. They are the most spectacular garment, the most practical, the most relaxed and casual. The cowboys have expression, modesty, sex-appeal, simplicity," said the teacher.And this definition of Texans comes very well to describe the spirit of this collection, sometimes casual, sometimes simple, sometimes sexy ... but, yes, never modest.
A wink to Spain
Yves worshiped Spain and was in love with the aesthetics of the bullfighters and flamenco.The spring and summer collection of 1977, is called 'La Española', and in it the bullfighter jackets were versioned and fringing shawls were used.And two years later, in 1979, he proposed capes as a coat.Today 'the Spanish' is not seen, it is heard.Vaccarello 'punctured' the version of the 'Rocío Jurado's love that Bernarda and Fernanda de Utrera for distant heels broke.Rossy de Palma and her Luna's daughter saw the parade from the first row, and applauded the collection and, of course, the soundtrack that joins her friend Pedro Almodóvar.Other guests have been Talia Ryder, Georgia May Jagger, Carla Bruni, Rose Park, Beatrice Dalle, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Chase Hudson and Farida Khelfa, mythical Yves Saint Laurent model.
The firm Saint Laurent did not parade since March 2020, when the coronavirus pandemic was practically a rumor in Paris and the French made fun of those who came from Milan's Fashion Week with masks.The rumor gave way to the nightmare and fashion ceased to be what it was.Giorgio Armani hit the table to get out of the 'system' and Saint Laurent got off the official catwalk to have his own calendar, making his parades in places.Now he returns home and what better way to do it than next to the Eiffel Tower, the luxury guest to the parade.Before we saw Dior's parade, with his great commitment to the 60s and the miniskirt.
