Karl Lagerfeld will be in everyone's mind this Monday when the Paris Fashion Week starts, during which Chanel's parade will take place, a signature that the late designer directed for 36 years.
Chanel's pass, scheduled on the last day of the Fashion Week of Prêt-à-Porter, on March 5, will serve to pay tribute to Lagerfeld, who died on Tuesday at age 85, and will mark the premiere of his successor,Virginie Viard.
The 'kaiser' of fashion, which always rejected the idea of a great posthumous ceremony, was incinerated on Friday in Nanterre, near Paris.The event was present at the event, the president of LVMH, Bernard Arnault, and Princess Carolina de Monaco, said the specialized magazine Closer.
Chanel's parades have always been marked by exceptional staging, under the imposing glass ceiling of the Grand Palais Museum in Paris.Lagerfeld himself took care of his conception.
The German origin designer, who was in addition to the Italian firm Fendi and from which he is named after his name, was absent from Chanel's parade, on January 22, because he felt "tired".It was his first absence in a presentation since he took the reins of the firm in 1983.Viard, his collaborator for more than 30 years, was in charge of leaving to greet the public at the end of the models pass.
Lagerfeld presented Viard as his "right arm and left arm".She explained to the AFP in 2015 that she "complemented" the designer: "I understand it, I get her ideas sublimate, I understood what I wanted to do with Chanel," he said.
Used to work in the shadow, Chanel's new artistic director must take the place of his celebrated mentor.
New faces
The Fashion Week for next fall-winter will open on Monday with the premiere of the British brand Rokh, by the South Korean designer Rok Hwang, former member of Celine studies and rewarded with the Special Award of the LVMH jury 2018.
Hwang worked with Phoebe Philo, emblematic designer who led Celine to the top with chic and minimalist garments, forging the image of a self -sufficient woman, before being replaced by the legendary Hedi Slimane (former Dior and Saint Laurent).
The French designer will present on March 1 his second female collection with the firm, after being criticized by much of the specialized press when he had premiered with a line of very tight garments, with adolescent airs and judged by some outdated in the era of the #I put.
However, Vanity Fair designated Slimane as the "most influential Frenchman in the world".
Three historical brands will also present the collections of their new artistic directors.
Dutch duo Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebruch, until now associated with a line inspired by Caribbean fishermen and recycled plastic -based garments, will be in charge of the Nina Ricci parade, a brand founded in 1932.
Bruno Sialelli, former Loewe, Balenciaga, Acne Studios and Paco Rabanne will present their first collection for Lanvin, the oldest sewing house in France still in activity and known for its elegant black dresses.
For her part, the British Louise Trotter (Joseph, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger) will premiere with Lacoste.(AFP)
Photo: Défilé Chanel Collection Croisière 2018, La Pause © Chanel