Navigation Gothic pirates and sirens
Paris, Jan 26 (EFE).- In Paris, haute couture became the stage of a fantastic costume on Wednesday, with the corsair inspiration of the Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad and the Gothic sirens of the Belgian Glenn Martens for Jean-Paul Gaultier.
After his farewell to the catwalks in 2020, Gaultier has taken the position of patron of his own brand and invites emerging designers to take stores.
This Wednesday was the turn of the Belgian Glenn Martens, creator of the firm and/Project and since 2020 creative director of Diesel, who reinterpreted the 1990 Gaultier codes in elongated and narrow dresses that mark and reaffirm the silhouette.
They highlighted the braided knitted dresses to the ankles with shoulders and belly openings, as if it were a bandage that surrounds the model, as well as the mesh type suits with striped or wild prints that draw the contour of the body of the body.
Martens, 38 years old and graduated from the same design school as compatriots of recognized talent such as Martin Margiela or Dries Van Notten, stayed in a range of anthracite gray, beiges and dark green, which gave the collection a somewhat somewhat somewhatgloomy.
He highlighted this environment with organza dresses translucent on variations from the famous Gaultier corset, which Martens used as a dress, but also the black backboard in which the spring-summer haute couture collection was shown 202222222222.
One of the most striking pieces was a long knitted dress with an embroidered marine line.
Gaultier got up from his seat in the front row at the end of the parade to hug Martens, received between applause and ovations.
In July, the "terrible enfant" of French fashion had left the autumn-winter collection 2021/2022 to the Japanese Chitose Abe, creator of the successful firm Sacai.
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De Martens said he was attracted to his avant -garde, experimental and architectural aesthetics, and his game between male and female codes.
Princesses and privateers
In the Fashion Week of Paris, where they follow each other from Monday and until tomorrow, Thursday, the presentation of the spring-summer 2022 haute couture collections was also the turn of the Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad.
His love for princess dresses, with long skirts, tulles loaded with rhinestones and marked necklines, played in this line with medieval aesthetics and pirates.
Their dresses were accompanied by braided tricorn or scarves knotted at the head, although allusions to the world of navigation went beyond, as with the embroidery of old maps in the dresses.
Pastel colors reigned, especially leather tones, although Murad included some styles in pink fuchsia and blue cerúleo.
They highlighted some open and adjusted dresses to the body made in Macramé, elevated to the category of Haute Couture thanks to the work embroidered rhinestones.
In addition to the dresses, there was some style at night with skirt pants, bulging, translucent and decorated with brilliant.
Both parades could be held in person, although they were broadcast live, with the assistance of just a hundred guests mandatory with a mask to avoid infections of the coronavirus, although fashion already seems willing to retake physical contact with their audience after twoYears of Pandemia and Virtuality.EFE
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