Marta D. Riezu: "You have no right to a dress per week because you are worth it."
They say the first thing to overcome a problem is to recognize it, and the journalist Marta D.Riezu realized because of this showcase of problems and errors that is a move that, as she assures, she had been doing things wrong for 15 years.With such words the essay 'The Fashion Fashion' (Anagrama) begins, a book that (do not say that we have not warned you), as soon as you read, it will awaken in you that sleepy cruc-Fashion '.It is not strange, by surprising yourself filling the virtual purchase cart of one of these 'low cost' stores in which more whims accumulate than needs and of course, than moral and/or sustainable issues, think that you deserveThose little whims or that your salary does not allow you to bet on other brands whose ethics imposes a higher price.For those thoughts, Marta also has an answer."Precisely because the money costs so much to win must look very good who gives it to him," he says in his essay, full of data that will make you look with some guilt in your closet.An example?Each Spanish generates average per year about ten kilos of textile waste.We know: 'Auch!'As if that were not enough, it indicates that even fashion rental is not even.“Cleaning of clothing (dry cleaners) and transport (changes of opinion and stature, returns and packages up and down) are two little sustainable elements.Maybe I would prefer a longer rent, a quarter instead of a week, for example.If you give me choosing, I prefer the dressing platforms Collective, ”he tells us.
AnagramaBut the author of fair fashion does not want to make us feel (necessarily) badly or have come to give lessons, because she herself claims to be the best example that you can dress in a more judicious way even being selfish and inconstant.His objective is that we can create a sustainable closet whose origin is known and as respectful as possible with the environment.We talk to Marta D.Riezu to know how to achieve it and to discover whether it is possible to work in fashion without consciousness ending with us.Yes: We have asked that question in a personal basis ...
Is it possible to talk about "good" and fashion "bad" fashion?
Yes.The "bad" fashion only makes money to very few (to workers and suppliers asphyxiation) and provides an ephemeral and misleading pleasure to buyers.The "good" fashion helps several communities very different from each other, has a lower environmental footprint and brings utility and beauty to the client's life, which he educates.A good brand always takes you hand to another good brand.A rotten firm just leads you goodbye to twenty euros.
Is it possible to sleep with quiet consciousness being a fashion journalist and knowing that the textile industry is a model based on poverty exploitation?
It is possible to sleep in a loose leg working almost anything.There is no clean job.I gain life with television and my texts, I don't live from fashion.That (and my unconsciousness and stupidity) allow me to speak freely.The majority of fashion journalists that I know know what there is and do what they can.We are all a little tied hands and feet by advertisers or unemployment.
Being informed protects us.Have we got used to buying crazy, not to strive?
We have become accustomed to "I have the right to".Sorry, what right or what dead child?Rights of the Constitution, and little more.You have no right to a dress per week because you are worth it.That is being an unconscious, and if you want to live in peace in society (let's not say a child in decency) you cannot live unconsciously.Savings is out of the equation for many people, so it only remains to prioritize and choose what we make in our life, what do we give up.
Is it the fault of the brands not to give us information, or is it our responsibility to ask for it?
I think that responsibility is yours, but since the information is not always exact or reliable (nor is well explained) there should enter our most active and demanding part.Faced with the doubt, it is not bought and walking.There are too many brands out there to keep something doubtful and mediocre.And there are no absolute headlines.'The local is always better'.Well not always.'The synthetic is better than the natural'.Neither.I prefer the ECONYL to the Merino wool of Mulesing Practices'.'The expensive is always more reliable than cheap'.Mistake.Each garment is a new discernment examination.
Marta D. RiezuYou prefer a cultured and steta militancy.Isn't Esnob?
Well, it is that responsible fashion has for many hippies implications of speech and aesthetics that I find naif and limiting.I think you can make a brush and be consistent with your own values.Being Esnob is great.It has nothing to do with frivolity or vanity or contempt, but to turn the game around.We have been told that fast fashion democratizes, but it only benefits us.To the other half of the world it exploits her, rot and the shell.A fashion brand that relates to culture (such as Hermès, Serge Lutens or Loewe) has my respect.But there is no brand that is 100% free of sin, just as it is impossible to find a citizen who does everything right.The important thing is to undertake small changes that over time suppose a substantial improvement.If we think "or change my closet from top to bottom or continue like now", we will never advance.Progresses very little by little.
Don't you think we tend to romantize the artisanal?
Of course!The artisanal 'per se' is not always beautiful or functional.Doing something at hand is a talent, that is undeniable, but there are many degrees of mastery.What I defend is high crafts (again, nothing to do with the price), related to excellence and tradition.Your neighbor who makes mud ashtrays is not craftsman (well, eye, he is still a genius and carries an eva zeisel inside, but it is unlikely).
You wonder how to find professionals who dominate restoration and crafts.What do you think would do it, by Moses Nieto?
It seems to me a very respectable and necessary project.Any directory that meets talented people, make them more visible and help win money is not only useful, but also build something real and long term.Moses against Goliath.
In the book you indicate the shadows of the Marie Kondo method.How do we say goodbye to what we don't want with dignity?
Throwing is not always the solution.We get rid of perfectly valid clothes.The proof is that we all whip when we remember a garment we gave years ago.I remember them as if I had them in front of them, I would have a lapping with a menhir for having been so silly to get rid of them happily. Yes estoy a favor de tener poco y bueno.But if you have a lot and you can use it, go ahead.What is not viable is to have a lot and new every six months.
I told a friend that I had loved the book and I was surprised by mentioning a phrase that you write in him: "There can barely pay fast fashion.Think otherwise is snob ".And you add that the class is to affirm that whoever has a low salary must be resigned to a debatable quality...
It is important to remember that I speak in a context of covered needs.If you have no job or home or health, fashion should import a whistle, frankly.There are other emergencies.But in a day to day in which you have everything basic I think anyone should aspire to the best.Quality always saves money.And it is exemplary.My parents bought with a lot of caution, and I looked.Not everyone has that precedent, but you can learn only to choose better.
Having a sensible wardrobe seems to love trends.Could Cryptomoda be the only sustainable alternative for those who love fashion and their transience?
Today it seems only an effective and metaphorical anecdote of our obsession with the image and status. Hace nada Zara sacó su colaboración con AderMistake.With the NFT you "have but you don't have", and you can boast it on certain platforms.It all depends on what weight the virtual world has in your life.Who will interpret what is ethical or legal in metaverso, which is not linked to a principle of territoriality or specific laws for each country?I do not see it clearly.On the Internet, right now, we are more consumers than citizens, and I don't like that.
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