Marine Serre or how to design clothes with a long life expectancy
PASARELAS the 2020 / 2021 autumn winter collection of the 2017 LVMH award winner continues to use fashion as a catalyst for a broader debate on issues of major concern today. Its biggest focus, climate change
To Liam Freeman.
This season, Marine Serre has decided that the enclave of her parade will be Le Centquatre, a former funeral home in the Parisian XIXème arrondissement that now lives a second life as a multi-purpose cultural center. A perfect place for a designer who bets so hard on ending the wasteful customs of the fashion world by recovering products that may have a different life.
Serre, winner of the 2017 LVMH award for young design, has created about 50% of its autumn / winter 2020 / 2021 collection with recycled fabrics. The collection is called mind Melange Motor, a title open to interpretation ("I Don't want to tell people what they should think," he says). It is inspired by Frank Herbert's science fiction saga Dune; melange is the name of a central fictitious drug in novels, where they refer to it as "the spice" that awakens consciousness and increases life expectancy.
The 28-year-old designer tells us how she plans to continue to create garments that are durable and that, at the same time, make us more responsible consumers.
La invitación para el desfile de la colección otoño-invierno 2020/2021 llegó en forma de cuadernito de Papier d’Arménie (un papel aromatizado que se quema como si fuera incienso). ¿De dónde sale la idea?For this season we have made a collaboration with Papier d 'Arménie, I always use it at home. When I started designing the collection, I was thinking about how things stay after they burn and dry. We publish a film on Instagram for our spring-summer 2020 collection, Maree Noire, and the scenes we see, a woman walking through an industrial landscape in a hood dress and volcanic eruptions around her, are the starting point of the 2020 / 2021 autumn Winter parade.
Así que, básicamente, anuncias esta nueva temporada con tus creaciones de la anterior, ¿no?
Exactly, I like to have a thread of continuity in everything I do; to make things more fluid, to move beyond the limits of creativity, to rethink the codes of fashion and how to transmit my work. If not, you end up repeating yourself: take out the collection, introduce it, take photos of the campaign, etc. And everything without questioning your brand or industry like everything.
¿Los temas de actualidad (como los incendios en el Amazonas o los de Australia) han avivado las ideas alrededor de la noción de fuego?How to organize a fundraiser without spending a tell http: / / bit.ly / gIrJV4 # nonprofit
— IdealistNews Tue Nov 30 17:14:08 +0000 2010
There's fire news everywhere, it's terrible, I use fashion as a loudspeaker to talk about what's going on in the world instead of as a leak point. The idea of this collection has been bursting for a while; in 2017, the fires in Portland (Oregon, United States) caught me right there. I was driving through the mountains and I ended up surrounded by clouds of smoke.
At the end of the movie we made, the woman, as if by magic, quenches the fire, as if she were a goddess. We are inspired by different historical accounts, such as that of Moses crossing the Red Sea. I like to play with the real, but also introduce some supernatural or hopeful element. If you look at what's going on in the world, it looks really ugly and we're doomed how we Don't start changing things. People think I'm dystopic, but I'm really realistic; I always wonder, how can we put this debate on the table? How do we make sure it doesn't happen again?
Tu estampado de luna creciente tiene quemaduras…In fact, we burn pieces of paper and use them as images to create the digital print. It also served to make the "burnt" jeans of recycled cowboy fabric that we dyed yellow.
¿Cómo diste con las siluetas de la temporada?I was thinking about how to create a sartorial language that wouldn't have been seen a thousand times; we've increased the production of male clothing for this season because of the great demand there is. I want the clothes to make us feel protected, to be functional; a dredging in a rooster leg jacket forms a pocket, for example. At the same time, I Don't like to get very serious either, so I have accompanied some of the most sartorial looks with those long, padded tubes of bright colors that can be worn like scarves. They also have pockets, so they keep you from having to carry a bag. And there is also a quilted dress with a hood that we have baptized as "holy sorority."
¿Cómo has seguido desarrollando tus prácticas de reutilización?The challenge is to make recycled clothing attractive. I have used Belgian carpets to make a dress in which you get into as if it were a T-shirt; another dress and a chilaba for men are made from embroidered cushions of white cotton, and we have also made jackets with leftovers of leather stock and blankets of synthetic hair. We also have a lot of knitting apparel; I've designed a dress made with three hoodies attached to cover point so that there's not the slightest waste. Being modern and creative is no excuse to waste resources.
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The autumn-Winter Trends 2020 / 2021 of Milan fashion Week
10 FotosBy María José Pérez and Marina Valera
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