Marina Raphael, the bag signature (with crystals) of the heiress of the Swarovski family
InterviewAt only 23 years old, Marina Raphael, the sixth generation of the powerful Austrian family, already has her own bag firm (of the same name, of course). Minimalist designs of architectural forms in which she highlights her craftsmanship and a constant search for sustainability
By Sara Hernando
The breed comes to the greyhound. Or the gauge Although at the age of 18 Marina Raphael decided to study Business Administration and Management, in the end the family tradition was stronger (her great-great-grandfather, Daniel Swarovski was the founder of the Austrian crystal firm) and at only 20 years old she undertook her own adventure in the fashion and luxury industry. “From a very young age I was exposed to the world of fashion through my family. Since I was a child, I loved dressing up, playing with all the shiny things, and spending hours doing things related to art and crafts. Despite the fact that I had chosen to study at ADE and had no experience in fashion, I was very motivated to create a unique accessories brand, that would design real pieces to invest in, that could be passed down from generation to generation”, Raphael concedes. , which in 2018 launched its eponymous bag brand. His designs, with their architectural shapes and impeccable workmanship, have already passed through the hands of influencers such as Giovana Bataglia and Chiara Ferragni, but also royalty, becoming one of the favorite brands of Queen Máxima of the Netherlands.
While many designs are studded with crystals, it goes without saying – “I choose to honor my heritage by incorporating crystals into most of my designs, whether it be a fully beaded evening clutch or an understated sparkling zipper” – these do not constitute its main attribute. “Craftsmanship is undoubtedly the key to my firm. Without the knowledge and experience of our skilled artisans, all Tuscan men and women, we would not be able to achieve the high quality standards we are seeking.” Manufactured by expert hands in Florence, Marina Raphael's designs resist the passage of time with freshness. "The goal is that all my bags constitute a wardrobe that can even be passed from mothers to daughters." In addition, its constant search for sustainable formulas, such as a new vegan leather that is obtained through residues from the apple industry, make Marina Raphael one of the most interesting accessory brands on the international scene.
We talked with this young creator about crafts and sustainability, but also about the importance of undertaking under the auspices of the Swarovski family name.
When and why did you launch your brand?
I launched my brand in September 2018, while studying Business Administration and Management at King's College London. Although I had previously ventured into the business world at the age of 16, through event management, I realized that I wanted to create a tangible and long-lasting product, thus the idea of creating a fashion brand was born. Inspired by Daniel Swarovski, my great-great-grandfather, who founded the Swarovski brand, based on the philosophy of creating 'a diamond for all', I decided to start my own brand of luxury handbags, with the aim of designing Italian-quality handcrafted accessories that can wear anyone, regardless of gender, skin color or age.
You are part of the Swarovski family, how do you think this helped you in this new adventure?
I am extremely lucky to be part of a family with an incredible history of ingenuity and creativity. At the center of my inspiration are the women in my family, intelligent, talented, visionary and opinionated, unafraid to show their personality through their sense of style. As a result, female empowerment is highly valued in my brand, along with Swarovski's tradition of cutting-edge innovation, attention to detail, and traditional craftsmanship.
How is Swarovski reflected in your brand?
I choose to honor my heritage by incorporating crystals into most of my designs, whether it's a fully beaded evening clutch or an understated sparkling zipper. I currently work closely with Swarovski as they handle quality control for all Marina Raphael products. I am also very excited to announce that I have collaborated with creative director Giovanna Engelbert for the new collection of Swarovski bags. Our goal was to push the boundaries of what a bag can look like and we created the emerald Lucent clutch and the translucent Somnia bag; two luxurious designs that look like giant pieces of jewelry, but are practical enough to carry all your things. It was a pleasure working on something so close to home, alongside Giovanna Bataglia.
You are half Greek, half Swiss, is this cultural heritage reflected in your designs?
Growing up in a multicultural environment is certainly reflected in my designs as is my travel experiences around the world . I have been lucky enough to travel to many countries and immerse myself in a variety of architecture, art, and rich cultures. These experiences are what fuel my desire to create a brand that is characterized by an international and inclusive mindset.
What would you say is the aesthetic of the brand?
I believe that all my designs are made to portray a timeless modernity, an elevated and structured accessory, characterized by its clean lines.
What is the creative process like?
Personally, I am very inspired by what is around me, be it a landscape, a sculpture, a flower, or a person I meet on my way. I like to take photos of things that I find interesting, and classify them into different categories, which help me create mood boards. Then I look for different ways to turn my design ideas into real bags, always with high quality raw materials. Once I decide on a design, I move forward with the prototyping process. From that moment, there is a great movement of work with my team in Italy, to perfect the prototype, before we present it during the fashion week.
Where and how are your pieces produced?
All bags are made in the heart of Florence, by a team of expert craftsmen. To achieve the highest possible quality we make sure that every fabric and seam is done to perfection. We also try to adapt to current sustainable standards, so we are constantly investigating ways to minimize our carbon footprint and ensure the most efficient use of natural capital. At the moment, we are proud to say that we are implementing a near-zero waste policy, by upcycling materials from previous collections. In addition, we tan small amounts of leather, recycle any textile material, and reduce the use of machinery, focusing on manual labor.
So sustainability is key in your firm...
Sustainability is at the heart of Marina Raphael. In addition to looking for new techniques to make our production more ecological, we are constantly looking for new materials that are more sustainable. From my latest collaboration with the sustainability consultant, Doina Ciobanu, comes our first bag made with vegan leather. Many vegan options are made from plastic, so Doina and I went a different route: our vegan leather is made from the waste from the industrial processing of apples. However, for me sustainability goes far beyond that. We need to give back to the earth everything it gives us. Our latest initiative has to do with the latter: for every purchase, we plant 100 trees in Malawi, through the organization 'Wells for Zoe'. Another major project, close to my heart, was designing a series of custom Swarovski bracelets and notepads for the Black Jaguar-White Tiger Foundation and Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda, where 100% of the proceeds go to their cause. Other organizations that I am very proud to support are Macmillan Cancer Support, the Elpida Association and the Mana Organisation.
How important is craftsmanship in the whole process?
Craftsmanship is undoubtedly the key to my firm. Without the knowledge and experience of our skilled artisans, all Tuscan men and women, we would not be able to achieve the high quality standards we are striving for. Traditional crafts tend to die out in this world dominated by machinery, so working with professionals whose labor has been passed down from generation to generation allows us to preserve this talent.
What kind of relationship do you establish with those local shops?
It has always been very important to me to work very closely with all my suppliers. Create a close relationship with them, establish an open line of communication, which reinforces our work based on mutual understanding and respect. I also learned Italian to facilitate communication and I try to fly as much as possible to Italy to have meetings in person.
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Who makes up your team?
My goal is to create a work environment that makes everyone feel included and integrated, making good use of their best assets. Before the pandemic, I organized trips for all the members of the international team to meet, interact and get to know each other. Today, where travel is more restricted, I try to facilitate group conversations. It is very important to me to create a family environment that makes my team feel valued and appreciated.
Your brand is present in some of the most important stores in the world, how did you achieve it?
I believe my success comes from my passion and motivation, as well as from my extremely hard-working team, who shares my vision and work ethic. Communication is the key to our relationship and each opinion is important to me, since I firmly believe that all this is important in a project like mine. Of course, I was also lucky to have received incredible love and support from many influential people in the fashion industry. It has been a dream come true to see women I admire wearing my creations. Seeing Giovanna Engelbert, Candice Swanepoel and Chiara Ferragni, to name a few, made me realize how much the brand was growing and expanding internationally, but it also helps me to be even more humble and fuel the constant work we do.
How would you summarize these three years of your firm's life?
Honestly, it has been an incredible journey from start to finish, accompanied by a rollercoaster of emotions, but I wouldn't change it for anything . Every collaboration, every project, and even every setback, taught me many valuable lessons, they only motivate me to keep striving for new ideas, new techniques, and to pursue new projects every season. On top of all that, I'm humbled by the incredibly loyal community of customers that has been built around the brand. It is heartwarming to see customers from all over the world carrying the bags and appreciating the love and dedication that goes into each accessory.
Any unfulfilled dreams?
We are only three years old, but I hope we will have the opportunity to open our own stores around the world, as well as expand our product line. At the moment, we are already working on cosmetic bags and key rings, made of upcycled leather and materials from previous seasons. I would also love to continue working with more creative people in collaborations, as I believe that exchanging ideas and discovering new concepts in the world of fashion pushes artistic boundaries.
How do you envision your brand in the next ten years?
My dream is to grow my brand internationally, open stores and expand our range of products. But most importantly, I hope that the friendships I forged during the early years of the brand continue to be a part of my life and that we continue to be true to the spirit of the company in giving back and supporting organizations that serve a greater purpose.
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