Less George Clooney and more Timothée Chalamet Chalamet: that's how the new man in the 21st century dresses
Fashion in the museum
The new masculinities, African inspiration, Gaultier and the coronation of Elizabeth II are the bets for 2022
Isabel Gómez Melenchón
The coming year will lower man from the pedestal, at least in terms of style, clothing and appearance, a new man, less macho and more ductile, less corseted and more open; to understand each other, less George Clooney and more Timothée Chalamet. Or that's what it will look like at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, which dedicates what is considered its great exhibition of 2022 to how fashion has created man and vice versa. Fashioning masculinities: the art of Manswear strips the masculine in order to later dress it, in a literal sense that makes you want to give the omicron a sleeveless tip and catch a flight to London on February 12, which is when it opens. If you can't do it, here we tell you.
Liquids and fluids
The Victoria and Albert 'undresses' men to show that they can dress much more freely than the dour 19th-century gentleman who still reigns
Liquidity of the times and the lack of liquidity of the museums after and even in the midst of the ravages of the pandemic have made them turn their eyes to the safe blockbusters, and fashion is always a winning bet, even more so when they adjust to what is that society, or a well-connected part of it, demands. To begin with, at the V&A they will strip the male sex of the weight of their mental clothing, because that is how the show begins, which, although it does not say so, has a clear message: men have not always dressed as men.
How to Become a Reverse Mortgage Broker - wikiHow: wikiHow article about How to Become a Reverse Mortgage Broker... http://bit.ly/faEZK2
— Justin Burns Wed Dec 29 02:00:28 +0000 2010
And what is meant by dressing as a man? Well, the western attire, the boring suit and tie now questioned, at least at the Oscars ceremony, because on the street you don't see many suits like Colman Domingo's bright pink Versace; by the way, Versace will also be recovered in a show this year. The man who will parade, a say, in London's Victoria & Albert Museum from March 19, is a man evolved: from the idealized bodies of Apollo and Hermes to the no less idealized of Hollywood.
Gaultier, the terrible
From the sculptural dresses of 'Kika' to the futurism of 'The Fifth Element', including Madonna's corsets
Because what has changed is the way of dressing, and to show a button. The Senegalese photographer Omar Victor Diop took a self-portrait a few years ago in identical clothing to the one Jean-Baptiste Belley wore when he was painted towards the end of the 18th century by a disciple of Jean-Louis David; Belley, an ex-slave also from Senegal, had already become the first black deputy in France, a senior figure, luxuriously dressed... in an elegant combination of dark frock coat, pale trousers and abundant scarves. Did anyone think of going dressed like this to the Congress of Deputies?
Because while women's fashion has maintained its freedom (within an order), creativity and color throughout the centuries, masculine fashion remained anchored in the grim nineteenth-century gentleman whose lack of a smile matched the gloomy outfit. But we are living in a moment of absolute male liberation, at least on the catwalks, genders are becoming liquid, men's clothing is becoming "more honest", in the words of the V&A curators and whatever that means and London is always a party, there is Boris Johnson to remember, and the exhibition is sure to be worth a visit.
Precisely two of the standard-bearers of fluidity in clothing, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Alber Elbaz, will star in exhibitions this winter. From Gaultier we know that he likes the cinema and that he dared with the male skirt before anyone else, except in Esocia, of course. Coming from the Cinématèque in Paris, where it ended this weekend, it will arrive on February 17 at the Caixaforum in Madrid Cine y moda. By Jean-Paul Gaultier, in which the couturier, put into cinema mode, will offer his particular vision of the symbiosis between both arts or crafts, as measured, through an equally personal selection of films, posters, photographs...
... and fashion, a lot of fashion, from Madonna's scenic corsets to the sculptural dresses that Victoria Abril dared to wear for the Almodovian Kika or the 954 costumes that Gaultier designed for Luc Besson's The Fifth Element (in the Not all of them are on show, of course), or his reinterpretation of classicism in The Cook, the Thief, His Wife and Her Lover, directed by Peter Greenaway. Futurism and dilution of genres long before it was put on, worth the redundancy in fashion. Starting in June, the exhibition will travel through Barcelona, Seville and Palma.
Paris will be the stage in March, in the great temple of fashion, the Palais Galliera, for the exhibition-tribute to the Franco-Israeli creator Alber Elbaz, who disappeared last year. With the title of Love brings love, the exhibition will be a reproduction of the parade that took place in October and in which 46 designers showed their costumes inspired by the couturier's work. Creator for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Lanvin and later AZ Factory, his own brand teaches, he participated in the fluidity, in this case of materials, shapes and lines that so closely adjusts to current thought. Also with a sense of humor, picked up by the designers who have paid tribute to him and who in many cases start from the self-portrait caricature of Elbaz himself.
Tribute to Alber Elbaz
Love brings love: 46 designers will present sets and suits inspired by the late creator in Paris
We return to London, and to the same stage, the Victoria and Albert Museum. When the men return to the offices, arguably, Africa Fashion will take over, or as you have to look down to see what we will be wearing in the increasingly near future. More than 250 objects, costumes, fabrics, photographs to document a creativity on the rise, both in inspiration and in price. The exhibition will analyze a generation of designers and stylists who, as is already happening in art, are beginning to compete for the best-known brands.
A few kilometers from London, at Windsor Castle, fashion will also make its way: none other than Elizabeth II's coronation dress. The British sovereign will celebrate her jubilee by showing her fewer and fewer subjects her dress, purple cloak and all, in which she acceded to the throne a whopping 70 years ago soon. It was a design by Sir Norman Hartnell, with floral emblems that represented each of the territories of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, and some nods to the nations that form (or formed) the Commonwealth, in charge of twelve embroiderers who dedicated 3,500 hours to the task. Fashion at the service of power.
In Madrid
In October the exhibition 'Picasso and Chanel' will open its doors at the Thyssen-Bornemisza museum
But the great conjunction of art and fashion will take place in autumn in Madrid; Specifically, on October 11 it will open its doors at the Thyssen-Bornemisza Picasso and Chanel museum, two names with capital letters from the 20th century. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle Chanel collaborated professionally twice, on Antigone and on Sergei Diaghilev's Russian ballet Le Train Bleu; The two had known each other since 1917 and established a long friendship that would last over time and that would open the doors of Picasso's circle to the French dressmaker. A meeting that would mark Chanel, who went so far as to say that “it is the artists who have taught me rigor”.
Four sections will analyze the relationship and mutual influence between both geniuses: The Chanel style and cubism presents the influence of this movement already in the first creations of the dressmaker; Olga Picasso will discuss some of the portraits that Picasso made of his first wife with Chanel creations, of which she was a faithful client. The Antigone chapter will see decorations and masks by Picasso and costumes by Chanel, who coincided in the adaptation of this tragedy by Sophocles, and Le Train Bleu, with which the exhibition concludes, the hand program, illustrated by Picasso, and his collection of garments sports shoes of that season to dress the dancers.
The fashion year will conclude with an extensive retrospective on Gianni Versace at the Dutch museum Groninger. Outfits, accessories, fabrics, drawings, interior designs and filming of men and women from the legendary fashion shows of the creator's golden years, between 1989 and 1997, will show how the Italian couturier revolutionized not only fashion, but the way it is displayed , his commitment to excess, ornateness, supermodels, gold, unique pieces and spectacle. All of this is not fluid.
Show CommentsUp to the Minute
