Learn to look with the "eyes of a child": Virgil's last lesson

By : ujikiu / On : 23/02/2023

Siguiendo adelante con el programa establecido para esta actual Semana de la Moda masculina de París, ayer jueves 20 de enero la casa de modas francesa Louis Vuitton presentaba su última colección para la próxima temporada Otoño/Invierno de 2022/2023. Una propuesta que ya estaba anunciado que sería la que mayor expectación despertaría durante esta semana de desfiles, tratándose de la última colección en la que había venido trabajando el director creativo de la línea masculina de la casa, el diseñador estadounidense Virgil Abloh, antes de su fallecimiento el pasado domingo 28 de noviembre de 2021.

Continuing with this maximum interest that was able to discover firsthand the last designs that the creative had profiled for the French fashion house, to which the capacity restrictions imposed on account of this pandemic for Coronavirus were added, from LouisVuitton did not find greater exit than to organize different passes for the parade.An event that could be followed thus yesterday both through the different official accounts of the firm on the different digital platforms, and through the official platform of the Fédération of the Haute Couture et of the French Mode (FHCM) and, already in the field of the physical, of the live parades that occurred on the capital of SENA at 2:30 p.m. and at 6:30 p.m..

Suppressing stereotypes

As they have been in charge of confirming from Louis Vuitton herself, the proposal was already armed "in 95 percent" by virgil pop at the time of its death.Having in charge of finishing off their last details, the set of artisans and professionals who have been integrating the work team of the Louis Vuitton male line during this stage, already closed, under the direction of the American designer.

As for the bottom of the collection, this is shown as the last chapter, the eighth, of the fate of “octology” in which the successive collections designed by Ulh have ended up being conferred since taking the reins of the creative direction of the lineLouis Vuitton Male, last 2018.An armed continuist proposal under the title of "Louis Dreamhouse", with which the creative continued on his exploration trip on issues linked to diversity, inclusion and value of the unit.Aspects that are the ones that have ended in this way to define their vision of the brand during these years, a period in which Obloh had been advocating in defense of an imaginative look capable of ending any stereotyped principle, and especially those linked toThe race, gender or social classes.

Aprender a mirar con los “ojos de un niño”: la última lección de Virgil Abloh

As a result, we find a proposal in which the own codes linked to traditional tailoring, with those of sportswear or the coming of the Women's Women's Fund again are merged.An action that results in a series of garments among which we find from sweatshirts to coats and tailor -type jackets or dresses, all impregnated with a dreamy color palette that sails between sunset rapes, blue nights, deep black and twilight white.Tones that arrive well to illustrate that overflowing strength of the imagination of the children, which shoots with the arrival of the night, and to which the American designer invites us to hug ourselves in this posthumous message that moves us from the hand of his latest collection.

"Imagine to light a spark of imagination, which ends up becoming an eternal flame", in a light that guides us "towards a new world illuminated by the possibility, where the unreal becomes real and fantasy manifests itself in real life", they explain from Louis Vuitton, through a statement, synthesizing with it what were the drives that guided the designer when conceiving this last proposal."For the autumn/winter 2022 collection, the eighth chapter of its career in Louis Vuitton," Virgil Ulh builds a 'Louis Dreamhouse' around a collection impregnated with the principles of his work ", from which his philosophy stands outfor learning "to look at the world with a child's virginal eyes".

"Through this lens," they add from Louis Vuitton, "the membrane between reality and imagination is non -existent," and "dreams can come true".“Before being programmed with the terms of adult society,‘ high or low ’,‘ black or white ’, male or female’, a child's mind knows no limits;It has no prejudices ".And it is in defense and claiming to return to that imaginative and inclusive look, that from "the collection break and transmutes the codes of the dress popularly linked to social archetypes", such as those of tailoring, sportswear or sportswear orThe dresses, "and mix them in new ways".All while recovering natural and supernatural elements from that same lost childhood, and that we will find in the form of motifs and silhouettes inspired by magicians, animals, clouds, gardens, the sky or angelic figures, whose wings to climb to heavenWithout limits of the imagination, at the same time they serve as a reinterpretation of that kite that became the central element of the 3 collection of Obloh for Louis Vuitton, as a tribute meaning towards his figure and his legacy.