Is Copenhagen's fashion week the most sustainable fashion week?
Gateways The most important fashion week in Scandinavia rises the sustainability bar: it begins a new action plan that will impose its designers 17 minimum requirements from here to 2023
By Emily Chan
Although fashion has finally begun to recognize its harmful impact on the planet, Copenhagen fashion week goes one step ahead in the assumption of responsibilities.As part of an ambitious action plan in three years, that of Copenhagen will be the first important fashion week in ensuring that their signatures take letters in the serious matter of sustainability."We are in the midst of a climatic crisis, so you have to act and urgently," says Vogue Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of the Copenhagen Fashion Week.
The first step is to reduce the environmental impact of Fashion Week itself.Single -use plastic bottles have already been prohibited and all carbon emissions of the operation are being compensated, with the ultimate goal of reducing waste by 2023 to zero.
The second part, more ambitious, of the strategy is to force brands to adopt rigorous sustainability policies.By 2023, Copenhagen Fashion Week will ensure that all its designers meet at least 17 minimum sustainability requirements, including textiles with at least 50 percent of materials with organic certification, reused or recycled in all its collections;use exclusively sustainable packaging;or that the scenarios of their parades generate zero waste.
A change vehicle
"The idea is to see how we, as a fashion week, can use the platform to actively involve the industry and lead the change," explains Thorsmark."The most important thing is to investigate how we can accelerate the transition from brands towards sustainable functioning".
The Danish firm Carcel - which is nourished by natural materials and that gives employment to dams of Peru and Thailand for the preparation of its garments - used its debut on the Copenhagen catwalk to precisely accelerate this conversation this conversation.Showing its rejection of the traditional parades format, the label did not physically teach clothing, but opted for a video installation that highlighted the key issues that affect the industry.At the end of its staging, the guests were encouraged to occupy the catwalk to highlight the active role they have to exercise for a real change.
“We need to start a new conversation in fashion;What is being talked about right now, is not enough at all, ”explains Verónica d.“What will fashion weeks be about in the future?Will they always focus on products?I think they should also talk about the process itself.We share images of our production in women's prisons;We use the platform to transmit our brand philosophy ”.
The need for a more holistic approach
Although today few brands avoid the issue of sustainability, for Copenhagen fashion week it is crucial that the participating brands present a 360 -degree approach."There are brands out there that they proclaim that they are sustainable and maybe they only use the occasional sustainable fabric," Thorsmark emphasizes.“In this world, sustainability must be focused in a holistic way.You should not consider a sustainable firm until you actively review your entire value chain ”.
Baum und Pferdgarten is one of the firms that has reformed in detail all its sustainable in line with the United Nations sustainable development objectives.This season, 50 percent of the pieces of its collection come from sustainable sources, with the intention of reaching 65 percent by 2024."We want the public to know where we produce, how we produce and with what fabrics," explains Rikke Baumgarten, co -founder of the firm.“It is not easy, but it is possible to get a more ecological industry.Everyone knows that it is simply not viable to continue functioning as until now ”.
For its part, the Ganni firm-which for its pop-up this season entrusted a series of creatives to make pieces based on recycling or reforming pre-existing garments-strives to guarantee a sustainable approach on all its fronts.About 70 percent of the collection will be made with responsible and/or recycled materials, and only once the order volume has been counted."In all areas of the business, we commit ourselves every day to make more responsible decisions, whether it is to investigate new materials or map our supply chain to the greatest possible extent," says Nicolaj Reffstrup, founder of Ganni and member of the Advisory Council of the Advisory Council of theCopenhagen Fashion Week.
Lead by example
Ultimately, Copenhagen's fashion week aspires to encourage with its example that other fashion weeks urged the industry to take sustainability seriously."The fashion weeks are very important because they gather the entire industry," says D’Auza."But I think we have to redefine your approach.It is essential that we assume our responsibility, start talking about new business models and address the problems surrounding the industry.More than ever, we have to use this platform to share new ideas and visions of where we want to go now ”."All fashion weeks, large or small, should demand minimum levels of sustainability to participating brands," adds Thorsmark."If we want to have an impact globally, it shouldn't be just the thing of Copenhagen Fashion Week.".
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