Wear we talked to Moses Nieto before the presentation of his latest collection
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Between April 8 and 11, Madrid will host the 73rd edition of his fashion week.In addition to the creations that will be presented on the catwalk, as usual, the presentations and events related to the fashion universe inside and outside that frame that makes the capital into the center of world fashion will occur.Moisés Nieto (37), who last December celebrated the tenth anniversary of his first collection, is one of the designers who wants to show the public the creations he has prepared for the autumn-winter that comes.He does it outside that calendar, because he has long decided that he wanted to uncheck of those formats with which he does not identify the character of his brand.
The style has talked with the Jienense -of Úbeda- to know what can be expected from the garments that already has lists and that will present in a video, shot at the Madrid slaughterhouse, which will be released this Wednesday, April 7, in differentPlatforms.It also responds to how the industry of which is part and its way of understanding the preparation of its clothes has changed since, just over a year ago, the pandemic began.
How is that novel presentation that is about to see the light?-This newspaper spoke with the designer before launching the recording that can be seen at the bottom-.
It will be an audiovisual piece that will be screened on day 7, this Wednesday, in the morning.It is already recorded and is going to be put in streaming on all social networks, YouTube and all platforms.We change the way to present the collections a bit because, as with the COVID it is impossible to perform any physical act, what we do is open to everyone what were the exclusive parades for the press.So that anyone, at click, can know the collection in real time and can enjoy it.
It is an advantage in the sense of being able to approach a broader spectrum of potential clients.
For us it is a huge advantage and we have seen how both fashion and consumer of the same have evolved.He is no longer the young man who buys the specialized magazine because he likes fashion, but, in the palm of his hand, through a smartphone, he has all the necessary information about trends and novelties.The designers have to evolve and see what the client demands.In this case, it is agile information and with a careful image.We cannot continue to make parades to use in Pavilion 14 of IFEMA.
All these new formulas, have you to stay to stay or do you think it will be something conjunctural until the pandemic passes?
I think it will be a turning point.In fact, the classic catwalk model was already in danger.From my own experience, since 2018 I make other presentations: performances, changes in the classic format of the parade...And I think it is a change that was needed in the industry.The youngest consumer is bored of the front Row of a parade, see that parade model with the same route.It has to evolve and, luckily, we have technology in our hand.There are many ways to present a collection.The brands are evolving very quickly in that regard, and they are doing very well.These are challenges that we have to put ourselves, differentiate ourselves in the way we present our collections.
How are you being adapt the catwalks to the pandemic?How and to what extent has the work changed with your team?
Well, at first it is true that, for fear of infections, I was coming alone and the rest of the teleworking team.We communicated by email and by phone.When we had a little more information, we were taking action.We work with masks.We are a very small team, we are four, and we organize quite well.I think we are getting used very well, very quickly.
Moses preparing one of his models before a parade in January 2020.Gtres.
What will the client find in this last collection with the garments for the autumn-winter that comes?
I present a collection composed of 24 looks.When making them, I have thought more about redo garments than to configure them from scratch.We are in a moment to rethink everything and it seemed interesting to make a reflection of how many garments and what types of garments we get.And how are they in our cabinets.Basically it has been a job of reformulating male coats, midi skirts, gabardines, the denim fabric -which we have also turned around -...It has been more an exercise to think than to design.
What kind of fabrics have you used for it?
They are noble fabrics.It has a part with wool fabrics and then a very important part because we have done in denim, with a collaboration with royo fabrics.They have created a revolutionary system because, when creating cowboy pants are spent 2.000 liters of water.They reduce it to 100%.It is the first machine that does not need water to dye a denim.In addition, save 75% energy and 85% pesticides.Our great bet in this collection is that denim fabric.
We are, then, before a sustainable collection.
Total.Since 2015, I always have a part of the collection that is sustainable.Either by how we produce, that we always do it in Madrid, or because we use recycled fabrics.This always adds to any proposal.
You present outside that MBFWM calendar, why?
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I advance one day, yes.I prefer to take the reins of my presentations and not be under any umbrella.We must make important decisions in life and, when you do not feel identified with some movement, change.I stopped parading in cyber in 2017 and this year I have decided not to be on the calendar.
The dressmaker during the presentation of his previous collection, already outside the Cibeles calendar.Gtres.
Where does fashion walk?
Towards a much more sustainable model, that is already evidence.And I think, too, towards a much more personalized model.The client no longer wants to go as we all go down the street, but wants much more personal garments, where the client participates in the creation process.That you can choose the fabric, the silhouette...We return, a little, to the 50s in that sense.To make clothes almost to measure.
What is a work day in the workshop of Moses Nieto?
A normal day, as in any other design office or company.We do our daily emails, answer clients, talk to the dressmakers...Also, according to the time of the year, we can be more stressed because we are with a new collection or preparing a shooting for the web or interviews...You enjoy a lot, because every day is different.That is something that is appreciated in a job as creative as this.
For what type or target client do you design?
Before I was very clear, because I focused on a much more mature woman, who would like culture and art.Now, having your work hanging on the network, the public is changing.I can be 16 years old to 85 -year -old.Which, it seems wonderful to me, to be able to cover any type of audience.Even guys.We are at a time when you can't pigeoner or look for a perfect target, because you don't know how the public you see will react.
And as the market is, the more it can be covered, the better.
effectively.It seems absurd to have to follow a canon of only selling to a type of lady.It is very bored and a very old way of thinking.
How have their creations change in the last year, which has been very particular for everyone?
I am at a time when I prefer to rethink, as I have already mentioned, to start creating from scratch, which seems much easier for me.Searching for good design, small details, a pattern that is well, choice of fabrics...There resides the good design.I work to improve garments every year to last in the closet a long time and are not a mere trend.
How much has the situation affected the sales of the brand?
This year we have multiplied by three sales.From September we launched a line of scarves, shoes and bags and acceptance has been incredible.We had a very good online sales time.We have focused all the work and effort on this channel and a new clientele has emerged: younger people who want to approach, somehow, luxury.
One of the bags with which the brand has expanded its market.Instagram.
What is saved on the one hand, you have to spend it on another, right?
What we have observed is that our client is a profile that was traveling a lot and what has saved on trip has invested it in small accessories that have served to give at Christmas, for example.
In addition, you already had a solid base for sale online.That path I already had advanced.
In fact, today Facebook reminded me that in 2013 we opened our first online store.And it is true that it is not easy, but we decided to focus the effort on that platform, because it seems the most sensible for a brand like mine.
[More information: the most artistic laboratory of Moses Nieto that revolutionized Madrid]
