Fashion and horoscope: history of a long (and very logical) obsession
HOROSCOPE ANALYSIS, DRESSES PRESSED WITH THE ZODIAC ... Fashion is once again reflected in the period of uncertainty that we live
By Nuria Luis
Accompany morning coffee with the horoscope consultation and talk about retrograde mercury as the cause of a bad week has become part of the daily routine.Incorporating astrology in our life has long since stopped restricted to ladies wrapped in caftans who threw the tarot letters.Millennial generation has proven to be a most receptive audience.And without renouncing the most rational part of their lives: as a New Yorker article collected in 2019, millenics who do not see a contradiction in believing in science and consulting astrology were causing a resurgence of practice.A practice that, in question, has been done with all the Internet of a time to this part.It is present on Twitter, in astrologers turned into the new Instagram influencers, in the proliferation of hundreds of apps such as Co-Star or Sanctuary.
Why does the horoscope triumph among the younger generations?A couple of years ago, The Atlantic collected in a report that people resort to astrology in times of stress: a small 1982 study led by psychologist Graham Tyson showed that the people who consulted astrologers did it to respond to theStress factors in their lives, particularly linked to social roles and their personal relationships."Under high levels of stress, the individual is prepared to use astrology as a means of coping, although in normal conditions he does not believe in it," Tyson wrote.In that same article, another study of the American Pyschological Association was pointed out that defined millennials and generation X as the most stressed generations since 2012 (even more than older generations).Consulting the stars would be presented as a balm in front of a combination of stress and uncertainty for the future that increases in periods such as the current.In fact, the New Yorker also referred to the popularity of astrology is explained hand in hand with the decline of organized religion and the increase in economic precariousness: “In times of crisis, it is often said, people seek somethingIn what to believe, ”said Christine Smallwood in the American publication.
In 2017, the WGSN trends forecast declared that "spirituality was the new standard", with a report in which events such as Crescent Festivities and alternative therapies between millennials were mentioned.That greatest interest was not only done with the Internet: as one more sphere of cultural reflection, fashion was a perfect scenario to manifest (and capitalize) everything related to esotericism, such as witches, images of tarot letters and,,Of course, devotion to zodiac.
Llevar colgado del cuello el signo del horóscopo personal es una de las máximas que sigue omnipresente en portales de lujo como Net-à-Porter o Moda Operandi y firmas que van de de Brooke Gregson a Sarah & Sebastian.But the sector goes much further: it is not made up of having fashion marks that bear horoscope (Aries) names and campaigns that emphasize their aesthetics (such as Gucci's with Tippi Hedren).Astrology has proven to be a very profitable source of large -scale income for the industry that manifests itself in practically every brand and piece of the closet that occurs to us.That the horoscope has become one more element of pop culture is a fact that is evident between brands with more sorera such as Yves Saint Laurent and others younger like Paloma Wool.Although betting on strategies that adapt to the interests of a younger clientele is one of the obsessions of the world of luxury, astrology becomes like killing two birds of a shot: a fixation that does not understand age and connects us with thatmost intimate part of the subconscious.
In 2020, that interest seems to make more sense than ever in the uncertainty caused by the crisis of the coronavirus.And fashion has echoed again: since last week it is possible to find in Zara, for example, personalized sets with the horoscope symbol and scarves in which zodiac designs also appear, each with its corresponding symbol stamped in silk silk.Along the same lines, on the catwalk we can find a whole challenge that goes from the dresses of Markus Lupfer's autumn collection to the almost mystical embroidery of Mary Katrantzou for the summer.Balmain's male collection did not escape in his autumn prints to the fascination with the Zodiac: Olivier Rousteing included several garments with a handkerchief print: “We are all together.We have the same sky and we look at it together.We are simply nomads, nomads of the world, ”confessed the creative director for Vogue.com.The last years show the repetition of astrology in the parades, in small or large doses.One of the collections that made the most emphasis was, for example, Emilio Pucci with Peter Dundas in front: a proposal, that of Autumn 2015, set of garments that emulated crashed skies full of embroidery with zodiac symbols.They were everywhere, with an end in which Dundas parad.
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As The Atlantic explained, fever by the stars (also represented in fashion) is not precisely new.Already in 1552 Luca Gaurico, astronomer and astrologer of Catalina Médici, published a book on the horoscopes of potatoes, cardinals, princes and other relevant figures of the time.In the S.XX, practice has taken different forms, such as the New Age movement of the 60s and 70.Between the New Age and the present the horoscope has not gone anywhere: Zara's scarves with zodiac symbols already took them, in their own way, Jackie Kennedy in the early 90s with a handkerchief, a carré of Hermès called 'Astrologie ', which appeared for the first time in 1963 and who have also come to take Oprah Winfrey and Christine Lagarde.
The interest of brands and designers in the Zodiac throughout the decades underlines their agenerational character.Before Fendi or John Galliano included him in the 90s, several of the most representative names of the fashion of the S.XX made astrology one of their identity stamps.The Crack of 29 was a good starting point: the first column on astrology in a newspaper arose, collected New Yorker, in August 1930 for the British Tabloid Sunday Express, following the drop in the bag.The occasion coincided with the birth of Princess Margarita.What the stars predict for the new princess was so popular (and such an incredible distraction) that became a recurring text.In that same decade, between the crisis of 29 and the revolts in a Europe on the edge of World War II, Elsa Schiaparelli directed his escapist fashion to the Zodiac.The autumn of 1938 (although the Met places it in summer of 1937), was a set collection with a heavenly iconography, inspired by the solar system, constellations, astronomy and astrology.In 2016 the Italian Maison reinterpreted one of the most iconic pieces of that collection: a dark blue jacket embroidered by the legen house with motifs of galaxies, growing moons, comets, silver planets and stars in explosion.Twelve glyphs embroidered in the flaps of the piece represented the twelve motifs of the zodiac in his forehead.Ursa Major, known as the biggest bear, illuminated her left shoulder.A reference that was also related to his own personal history: his uncle Giovanni Schiaparelli, his father's brother, was director of the Bera Observatory in Milan.An astronomer who had worked a fame in his field for his discovery of the Mars channels and that Elsa remembered with love: “I liked it because he used to say that he was born with the constellation of the main bear on my cheek.They were, of course, moles.He used to look at the stars through his great telescope, holding me in his arms, ”writes Schiaparelli in his autobiography, Shocking Pink.Allowing the inexhaustible imaginary of the designer, the house also resorted to its astrological motifs in the Haute Couture Autumn collection in 2016, with delicate black dresses that also included the symbols of the Zodiac.
Astrology has always been used to know when to reap or when to go to war.According to New Yorker, Theodore Roosevelt kept his birth letter at hand, while other politicians such as Charles de Gaulle, François Mitterrand or Ronald Reagan went to astrologers at some point at some point.The stars the same could serve for the political designs than those of fashion: it was a tarotist who insisted Christian Dior to open his own signature in 1944.As a logical consequence of that fascination by seers and letters inherited from their maternal grandmother, Madame Delahaye became an essential figure for Couturier.An entire esoteric universe that has inspired its successors, such as Maria Grazia Chiuri: for the spring sewing collection summer 2017, the Italian also included some dress embroidered with several of the motifs of the Zodiac.
Speaking of the complexity of making a simple black dress, Coco Chanel explained to his friend Paul Morand that extravagance annuls the personality, referring precisely to an astrological allusion: “That princess, so happy with her green chal on whichThe signs of the Zodiac are recorded, it will only surprise the ignorant, ”he collected in Allure Chanel.An illustrative but quite paradoxical example, given Gabrielle's deep superstition with the horoscope.At least, with his own: his sign, Leo, is the fifth of the Zodiac.Two symbols, the lion and number five, which are part of the house's DNA: "I am Leo and like him, I show my claws to protect myself," said the designer once.All his life kept the statue of a small lion with his cigarettes and scissors, and was part of his designs, of the buttons of his tweed costumes.The lion is not just a repetitive reason for its jewelry line.Karl Lagerfeld transformed it, for example, into the absolute protagonist of the autumn parade in 2010, with a huge statue of the animal in the middle of the Grand Palais in Paris.In their own way, the stars are also a (astrological) motive of coconut, especially since he began experimenting with them in their Bijoux de Diamonts collection of 1932: “I want to cover women with constellations.Stars, stars of all sizes, ”he said in his day.
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