Dior stands against patriarchal stereotypes at Paris Fashion Week
Paris, France - rebel against patriarchal stereotypes.This is the proposal of the artistic director of Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri, who transposed on Tuesday his intimate teenager, written in full liberation of women in the 1970s.
Chiuri has been inspired by the years he spent in his mother's sewing workshop in Rome, where he saw women move through their clothes.
AdvertisementThe collection was presented at an installation conceived by the Claire Fontaine artistic collective where you could read, in large colored letters, some of the ideas of the Italian feminist author Carla Lonzi.
The word "consent" (consent) was projected throughout the parade, in a space in the style of the 1970s.
AdvertisementAmong the public were innumerable celebrities, such as the actresses Demi Moore, Andy McDowell and Sigourney Weaver, Nicaraguan activist Bianca Jagger and the Cara Delavingne and Karlie Kloss.
During the parade, other feminist slogans were screened, such as "Partiarchy Kills Love" ("Patriarchate kills love"), "Patriarchy = CO2", "When Women Strike, The World Stops" ("When women strike, theworld is paralyzed ") or" we are all clitoridian Women "(" We are all closed women ").
- Head handkerchiefs -
"It's a very personal collection.You realize that all your references are formed during adolescence, "says Chiuri in an interview with AFP.
"What influenced me first was the liberation of the woman, who began to affirm her specificity, her ability to be not only mother, wife, daughter, but a personality with multiple aspects," he explains.
An image of her with her mother, both with an knotted scarf, appears as a marked inspiration for this Prêt-à-porter collection autumn-winter 2020-2021.
Head handkerchiefs complement almost all proposals: tight jacket costumes, sets with transparent long skirt, miniskirts with ponchos, night dresses...
The high socks that the designer looks in the photo, here they become black grid stocks and socks that stand out from the ankle boots.
"I didn't want to be nostalgic, I reread my intimate diary with my contemporary vision," says the Italian.His reference to this era does not translate into "looks", rather in "the attitude", he explains.
"It is a search that each woman has to do individually, but we have to sensitize women to look for them, and not for others (...), And they distance themselves from the idea of stereotyped female beauty ".
- "Patriarchal culture" omnipresent -
Flat footwear, rubber boots or open shoes, as if they were house shoes, reflect this idea, the stylist stands out.
AdvertisementFor this season, Dior proposes the iconic set -in -point jackets or Tejan.
The reasons "cool and timeless", such as points or paintings, often appear.
The silhouette is "refined" and "simplified" visually, but "complex" from the technical point of view.
After the haute couture parade last month, in which an army of feminist deities paraded in the belly of a monumental sculpture of a mother goddess, Maria Grazia Chiuri reiterates in the matter.
This time, it highlights the Italian feminist author Carla Lonzi and has with contemporary touches the patriarchal discourse that denounced so much.
"This patriarchal culture is still very present in fashion," says the stylist.
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"Our role is to use the popular fashion side to raise curiosity and questions," he concludes.
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