This is how a haute couture collection is made: we enter the exclusive workshops of the Dior house
"Recovering the values of haute couture after this period of restrictions in which the collections designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri were presented mainly through the fashion film format", that is the idea of the house of Dior, which with its new brand proposal the way that fashion needs: express yourself from within, open up, undo your seams to show your heart. "Haute couture awakens unsuspected desires and makes visible what is not seen through a mixture of extraordinary art and savoir-faire. And most importantly: it defines the yearnings of a world in the midst of a profound transformation", says the maison , who did his previous show, with his fabulous resort collection, in Athens.
That is why the house invites us to enter its exclusive workshops to see up close the work of the professionals who sew, embroider, stamp and build the wonders that we later see in the parades, to see the magic that those artisan hands make. Hands that generally work in anonymity, away from the spotlights, the flashes and the gaze of others. Hands that, however, are increasingly present on the catwalks, as we saw in the already famous Gucci parade.
The collection, and its message
The house advocates selling optimism and joy, and it does so with a proposal of rich fabrics, perfect suits made of wool, silks with wonderful embroidery, velvets... Dior's was the first face-to-face show of High Fashion Week Couture from Paris and that is why he wanted it to be extraordinary. And how has he achieved it? Well, highlighting the legacy of Monsieur Christian Dior and promoting the new image of the house, now converted into the flag of the new feminism.
Maria Grazia Chiuri revisits the slim-waisted silhouette and puffed skirt that revolutionized fashion after World War II, Christian Dior's so-called "New Look". Although the Italian reduces it in intensity and versions it in a minimalist key, and somewhat masculine, a concept that we are all obliged to review. We also see pleated flared skirts in gray tweed, which are combined with fishnet shirts and a black top. The trench coats that extend to the feet and provide a British air, in the purest Sherlock Holmes style, stand out.
"The return to the face-to-face implies shifting attention to textures, to what can be touched. This 'materiality' of the virtual era must be translated and the use of embroidery helps. "Embroidery must be reinterpreted, not so much as an ornament decorative but as an element that connects the senses of sight and touch".
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Chiuri's bohemian point can be seen in silk skirts worked with different printed scraps, "patchwork" type, something that is repeated in the coats, which mix silk and velvet. Short jackets, bomber jackets, Bermuda shorts, mid-length skirts, shorts and capes are declined with a touch of wool, and the most fluid designs stand out: dresses in transparent chiffon, structured around a corset, a piece that the house has made fashionable after seeing Barbara Pravi at the Eurovision Song Contest 2021. Chiuri is a silent rebel and from time to time launches a little daring. We now see powerful contrasts like printed raincoats worn over feathered dresses and asymmetrical skirts.
The parade has had two catwalks, that of the models and that of the celebrities, a battalion of celebrities led by the actresses Jennifer Lawrence, Jessica Chastain, Monica Bellucci and Cara Delevigne and the famous photographer Ellen Von Unwerth. In addition, we have seen Jaime de Marichalar with his daughter, Victoria Federica. Could Infanta Elena's ex-husband have a clear objective?
