The “Gaultier Celebration” by Glenn Martens at the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Show
FashionThis is the second collection made by a designer from outside the firm, thus contributing his own vision of the creative universe of l'enfant terrible in French fashion.
By Marta Martínez Tato
If last season Chitose Abe from Sacai had to take the creative reins of Jean Paul Gaultier, in this Haute Couture collection it was Glenn Martens from Y/Project who put his vision of what Gaultier is on the catwalk , reinterpreting their most iconic designs. More than a collaboration, it is an intervention in which each season a designer brings his own vision to the firm, creating a collection capable of fusing the best of the two creative worlds, that of the firm in question and that of Jean Paul Gaultier. . The result is surprising proposals, totally fresh and with the residue that the bulky aesthetic heritage of Jean Paul Gaultier leaves behind.
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This has happened in this Haute Couture collection for spring 2022 in which we have been able to clearly see the essence of the iconic enfant terrible of French fashion, passed through the futuristic and transgressive filter of Glenn Martens. This is how the mythical corsets by Jean Paul Gaultier have paraded, the sailor motifs, the skirts cut flush with the hips, the sensuality and theatricality typical of the firm passed through a new avant-garde sieve.
Nude, bottle green, blood red, black, coral, light blue and pink have been the protagonists with a clear prevalence of the dress. Dresses ranging from their most ethereal and delicate forms, to the most forceful, well fitted to the body, marking (and sometimes exaggerating) their curves, going through the extra voluminous and ornate. Transparencies, impossible pleats, 3D leaves, draping and a combination of textures have marked this collection that Jean Paul Gaultier has discovered at the same time as the rest of the attendees.
"I'm only doing this for one season, it's not like I have to dive into the firm to create a new path around the house, it's a very different exercise," Glenn Martens tells Vogue.com, "this is a Gaultier celebration.
