Ortura: a contemporary sewing house
Otura are Verónica Abián and Sergio de Lázaro, the fashion couple that everyone speaks for their artisanal character and sustainable vocation.On their own merits they have become one of the most relevant firms of the current national landscape with quality as a banner.Its recent incorporation to ACME is one more link within its success list, including the L’Oréal Prize for the best collection on the MBFWMadrid catwalk (2020).
From Fashionunited we interview this fashion tandem to learn about the details of his sewing house.
What does it mean for you to be part of ACME?
For us diversity within the sector makes us stronger, more plural and more valuable to the rest.The Spanish Fashion Creators Association has occupied a fundamental role in this extensive and exciting work since its inception.He is a fundamental actor for the care of the values that unite us.
How do you think this incorporation will affect your work?
We believe in the exchange of ideas and in the creation of stable synergies and collaborations, so being closer to our classmates and allows us to learn firsthand and nourish ourselves from their knowledge-to.It is an important step in our history, since it allows us to start working for the collective directly and not only in our individual activity.We enter with the firm purpose of "doing" and not just belonging.
Of the creators who are already part of ACME, do you admire anyone in particular?
The admiration is general, there are so many names that have been working for many more years than us who become small.Admiration, respect and humility are words that are repeated when we read, talk or as now, we share space with professionals such as Mesa, Carlos Duarte, Juan Duyos, ... but also adds the pride of being in a project that was born from the energy of the energy ofThe missing teachers D.Jesús del Pozo and D.Elio Berhanyer, which are inspiration for us.
It is also important to also mention that entering with travel companions as wonderful as Isabel Sanchís or being able to learn from new entrepreneurs such as Laura Corsini with Bimani, or brands in full growth as Reliquiae is a privilege.Any of our colleagues deserves our admiration.
In 2020 you released at the MBFWMadrid getting the L’Oréal Prize for the best collection, what did that award mean for you?
Unexpected recognition.A dream and a huge oxygen ball to continue betting on our vision of fashion and continue risking step by step.
How does it arise another?
Of the need to create a contemporary fashion house, where we can find a point of union between inherited trades and the new technology, using a current language.Without ties, or pre -established frames, just create dreams, pieces, narratives looking for high crafts.I think we recently saw a wonderful interview with the RCR architecture studio and described architecture as fashion is for us, "a job that seeks to reveal and discover the personality of each individual".
Where does the name come from?
Of the ancient Spanish word "once" and its union with "sewing".Simple, "Another sewing", "Another Misura"
They define you as a "sewing house", why?
Because our artisanal sewing workshop is making our garments all day so that each of our customers have their garment of our permanent collection of high prêt-à-porter sewn at the time of their assignment and with their preferences in terms of colors andfabrics, not as part of an industrial stock, if not custom sewing for the same price.In addition, our workshop also sews haute couture, so the requests for unique designs are also made with maximum care and excellence.
How would you define the woman and the other man?
Es un cliente maduro intelectualmente, con los valores muy claros a nivel de sostenibilidad social y respeto por lo que le rodea, a la vez, que sin duda alguna tiene un sentido del humor y una mirada hipercuriosa.What is your next SS22 collection inspired?
We are inspired by an annual theme, which begins from a September, to the following August.Thus we can reflect on the different facets of the same.For this 2021-2022, we have decided to dedicate it to the "reality of sleep" and we seek to see that there is behind the dream image and folklore that the world of sleep has, to materialize it and see how they affect us to our day to day to day.
Tell us a little about you ... Sergio, where does your love come from and where did you form?
He studied law at the Autonomous University of Madrid, but in the last year fashion and retail crossed my way.I started an apprentice in a youth brand while studying with 19 years, and I was no longer stopped working in the sector, I was gradually learning in different positions, while I was part of houses like Roberto Verino, Etro, CH CarolinaHerrera, Christian Dior and almost the last 10 years, before creating other, Hermès.
And you Verónica, when did your arrow start with the fashion world?
I always loved fashion, but Sergio's passion and creativity are so contagious that love for this world completely caught me.
Is design and marketing the perfect tandem to succeed in this sector?
We do not know, I suppose that each one must seek their balance, in our case, I think it is rather creation and communication, because we do not understand fashion, as a sector where there is exclusively an answer to customer needs or requests or requestsof the market, perhaps this is the perfect formula for textile trade.For us, dialogue with the client, the proposal, the risk, the surprise, the social pulse, the intellectual currents, the creativity of the trades, the emotional pulse of the company, etc ... also come into play, etc ...
Otura is based on sustainability as one of its fundamental pillars, how do you do it?
We believe in a sustainability betrayed in three pillars and we like that it is very clear, so we are very schematic: social sustainability (the house's commitment to the communities around them);the sustainability of materials (we work with classic materials and more new ones such as biodegradables);and cultural sustainability (fashion must be culture that is reflected in commercial and communication actions).
Thanks to the Re_Costrua service, you offer the possibility of giving a new life to ancient fabrics, what acceptance does this service have?
Of emotion, that would be the word of how people understand this service.To be able to create new lives to pieces or fabrics that have been containers in turn of the dreams and emotions of the people we have wanted to believe that it is wonderful.If we can do it with contemporary language ... it's something unique!
In this section, what has been the greatest creative challenges that you have faced?
Create a vest-lozer starting from a silk cushion from the ends of the S.XIX who was very damaged.We have restored the interwoven and sink again, and strengthened the marks of the passage of time.The result fell in love.
Artisanal character is another of your strengths, where do you produce your creations
We have our sewing and tailoring workshop in Moral de Calatrava, Ciudad Real, our marriage workshops in Ubrique and Dodro, the footwear was born in Sax and in Montegranaro (Italy), the skins come from one of the most wonderful tannings in the world in matchedand our fornitures and 3D pieces from Bilbao.But we are continuously looking for workshops where to create.
What is your next professional challenge?
It is essential to seek balance and strengthen us financially.We have only been born, nothing is finished and we have everything to build, but we do seek to specify a little more, the next edition of the MBFWM is aim and it would make us very excited to surprise a little more than in the previous editions.
