Marcos then had a well -kept secret, so far
Madrid Fashion Weekporrafael Muñoz (@Munoz_rafa)
Many designers are inspired by painting to make their collections.Ailanto, are a good example, and Marcos Luengo, who always has artistic references in his proposals.Now he tells us about the work of Rubén Martín de Lucas, a painter who in turn is inspired by the philosopher and farmer Masanobu Fukuoka, a pioneer of natural agriculture that focuses on the minimum intervention of the natural environment.Well, Fukuoka's philosophy and the colored spots of Martín de Lucas give meaning and color to Marcos Luengo's new work.
No stations, without seasons
There are garments with a powerful aesthetic load, always with the joy of a vitalist chromatic palette.The patterns evoke the eastern, relaxed but strong forms, but with the help of belts and corsets, westernmost silhouettes are achieved, more stuck to the body.It is, as Luengo says, a multi -state collection, with garments for the twelve months of the year, already alive in Asturias or in Malaga.
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The collection does not contribute anything new to first sight but then reveals two very interesting things: the fabrics and Carmen.The dressmaker has done a good experimentation exercise with tissues to embrace sustainability.Next to the cotton, wool and silks we see hemp, linen of different thickness and recycled nylon, which provides a fabulous texture and touch.With this fabric he creates oversize warm garments that dress women and men.And this is the other secret.
With you, Carmen Luengo
Luengo unfolds now in two heads, two hearts, two ways of seeing fashion, two collections.Her Daughter Carmen Luengo has formed to be a designer.First in Florencia, in Polymode, and then in the fields, the cradle of great aguajas such as Martin Margiela and Dries van Notten.She is 23 years old and a long way to go.She presented her first work in Milan Fashion Week and now lands in Madrid from her hand, but with her own voice and her own space: the male closet."I maintain the lines of my father's collection, the fabrics and colors but these garments are more innovative, I want to make garments of the man's locker room but with a young, more current air," she says nervous.
He has submitted 9 looks with models of all ages, a declaration of intent.The patterns are comfortable, comfortable, and the garments hide very careful details that provide a plus to each shirt, shirt, jacket, pants or coat.She has made a kimono (which weighs a barbarity) that makes the same wink as her father to Japan, and impeccable costumes that give off a comfortable and timeless air.A shy but very appealing premiere for everyone.
And male fashion?
Where is male fashion?It is a question that we all ask ourselves, because it has almost disappeared from the catwalk.García Madrid and Roberto Verino have left IFEMA, Pedro del Hierro, Ana Locking and 44 Studio do not parade, Custo has 'parked' fashion for boys ... only Duarte and Ortura are interested in this sector, and Félix Ramiro,A 'big' when dressing the bride and groom.It's sad.Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada, always against the countercurrent, has made some man looks, although it has been an excuse to have Omar Montes on her catwalk.
