Hollywood Boulevard appeared cut by police last night.Huge light bulbs pointed to the road to the sky of Los Angeles and the light signs of the theaters projected on a pink background a tortured phrase of 1955 of the Marilyn Monroe newspaper, which ends like this: "My body is each part of it". Los turistas, que habitualmente caminan con los ojos clavados en el suelo en busca de las estrellas del paseo de la fama, fueron desalojados por la desaforada puesta en escena del último desfile de Gucci: un canto de amor de su diseñador, el romano Alessandro Michele, a la ciudad californiana, al cine, a la moda callejera y a la historia de una firma que este año celebra su centenario.
Michele baptized Gucci Love Parade to his first face -to -face event, after the interruption of the pandemic because, he explained, his intention was to present a stop, something much larger than a common parade.Attendees sat on director stamped with the brand anagram.They were arranged in a gigantic first row that, distributed between both paths of the famous boulevard, allowed to closely admire the models that left the interior of the Chinese theater, icon of a street that every year is cut to traffic for another great celebration: the awardsOscar.
The aesthetics of the show represented eroticism, the classic Hollywood and its dark reverse.From Elizabeth Taylor making Cleopatra to Gloria Swanson down the stairs at the end of the sunset of a life.From the classic image of Gucci as a sign of the identity of the jet-set to the trip made by the cowboy hats of the west movies to the gay clubs.And Michele returned to play with the concepts of gender and inclusiveness fluidity that made their work an always relevant contribution since she took command of the house in 2015.
Una música extraña, de esas que ponen banda sonora de film noir a los traumas de la protagonista, recibió a los invitados, entre los que había famosas como las cantantes Billie Eilish y Miley Cyrus, actrices como Gwyneth Paltrow, Diane Keaton y Dakota Johnson, y deportistas como la tenista Serena Williams. Algunas, como Anjelica Huston, estaban por partida doble: en presencia y con su nombre impreso en letras doradas en el suelo.Among the androgynous models walked on Björk's music, faces known as those of the actors Jared Leto or Macaulay Culkin, the writer Miranda July or the guitarist ST also sneaked.Vincent.
By then, Los Angeles, with their relaxed and paranoid incarnation of the American soul, already seemed a place indicated to celebrate the centenary of a brand that was born as the dream of Gucci Gucci, Rudo Florentino made to himself that began in 1921 to sell suitcasesof leather for the small traveling bourgeoisie in the first via tornabuoni store.If that family business has become one of the most ubiquitous brands on the planet, today owned by the Kering conglomerate, it is also because of the reception that this country and its film stars and first ladies dispensed to the ambitions of their son Aldo, which, which, which, which, which, which, which, which, which, which, which, which, which, which, whichAs soon as in 1953, he knew that the future of fashion was in its globalization and opened a business near the fifth New York Avenue.
"When we think of America we do not immediately think of fashion," Michele told the press after the parade.“But it is a tremendously influential country, thanks the aesthetic projection of the image of its great social and political movements.When I came to Los Angeles I wanted to pay tribute to this city that in a way I feel how my house, and also claim that fashion is so much or more in the streets than in the catwalks.My Hollywood, of course, is in the streets ".
The choice of the place also responds to a child obsession.The parade attendees received, within one of those folders that would archive criminal cases in a black novel by James Ellroy, a text in which Michelle explained that she was raised by a mother who worked in the Roman film industry as a production assistant.And that Dream Factory ("Marilyn Monroe's paleness and her diaphanous voice, Veronica Lake's velvet."Key to forge your personality.A personality that seems to be the great bet of success of his CEO, Marco Bizzarri, who walked his very high figure embedded in a green velvet suit, and its president, François Henri-Pinault: in five years, the occurrences of MicheleThey have tripled Gucci's revenues to 96 billion euros of revenues generated in 2020.
Ese romance entre la casa de moda y Hollywood está a punto de dar otro rentable fruto con el estreno de la película House of Gucci" class="com-link" data-reactroot="">House of Gucci, que cuenta la historia de ambición, avaricia y décadas de enfrentamientos (con asesinato incluido) de la familia, que perdió el control de la firma en 1988.Directed by Ridley Scott, it has stars such as Lady Gaga, Adam Driver and El Pacino.Its premiere is scheduled for November 24 in the United States and the first images seem to someone's master play on converting the brand's legacy into a phenomenal business.
Before the beginning of the parade, a clueless Scott told El País that he was about to witness “the first fashion event” of his life, and that he feels “very satisfied” with the film, “a project of almost twenty years”."I have decided to do it now not for the centenary, but because I finally found the right writer for the history [Roberto Bentivegna]," added Blade Runner director.The family, meanwhile, has shown displeasure with the film portrait of their misfortunes.
Meanwhile, Michele later explained to the press that it had nothing to do with the film and only read "parts of the script".“When they rolled in Rom.With movie or without movie, we always return to the brand file;It is a constant source of inspiration, ”he said.
The last collection, presented in April, was another proof of this, by successfully raising the review of some of the topics of the house, such as equestrian inspiration, based on an alleged cavalry past of the Gucci, gross invention of the patriarch, orThe sexualized glamor with which Tom Ford made fashion history in the change of the century.Another of Michele's projects for this year of celebration was to open during the Milan Fashion Week, in which he does not participate by conviction, a virtual second -hand store with garments from the firm chosen by him and set up byThe company's artisans.
Although this extravagant creative that seems to manage year after year to connect with the spirit of a time without spirit is not one of those who make up just looking back. El espectáculo de Los Ángeles es también una reflexión acerca del futuro de una industria a la que la pandemia golpeó duro. La misma logística del evento demuestra que algo ha cambiado: solo 42 periodistas pudieron asistir presencialmente a la celebración, el resto lo siguió virtualmente.
The event, which entails a donation of one million euros to six homeless people aid organizations, one of the most pressing problems in the city, delves into a rethinking proposed by Michele for some time of the parades system, which, whichSeveral times a year he put a global tribe of professionals to jog for the world of one week of fashion in another.Concepts such as male and female clothes, Paris-Milán-Nueva York and spring-summer and autumn-winter are for him of the past.If just before the pandemic something like that seemed to lose meaning, Michele stopped seeing it at all during the confinement in his Roman apartment.
There he definitely embraced the idea of creating experiences, such as a film festival with the collaboration of Gus van Sant, outside the calendar and formats.Events capable of generating global impact, events such as this excessive demonstration of love to cinema that cut on Tuesday one of the most emblematic streets in Los Angeles.