From Schiaparelli to Dior: Simplify the Haute Couture equation
Paris's haute couture parades began on Monday with a reflection of designer Daniel Roseberry who summarized the atmosphere that is perceived and around the catwalk, and that, from Dior to Chanel, translates into a return to containment and eleganceclassic.“Fashion has been insisting on its relevance during the last two years, but I can feel how some of its main actors are no longer so convinced.What does fashion mean in an era in which everything constantly changes? ”His answer - in the form of a collection - tries to also answer a dilemma that concerns the brand that Capitanea, Schiaparelli, founded in 1927 and heiress of the iconography of Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau: when everyday life, everything is surrealistWhat is surrealism?For Roseberry, simple lines and the absence of color.
The American designer renounces "the tricks that are generally used to highlight greatness and crafts".The complex silhouettes, the theatrical volumes and the huge amounts of fabric are resources that now seem empty for the American.All the dramatic weight of its proposal falls to the accessories: Human head -shaped bags, cathedral earrings that require buttresses in the form of headbands and bustiers that look like solar systems.Stripped of these artifacts, their garments are purified and, sometimes, even rational.But his parade - the first face -to -face in pandemia - shouts haute couture and confirms why Roseberry is one of the creators whose image and relevance has grown more in these last two and dystopic years.
Also in Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri focuses on black and white, and simplifies her silhouettes.Even his already famous Greek goddess and tulle skirts decline in a more schematic version.The interest of his collection for next spring/summer lies in the contrast between that purity of lines and the embroidery, in which the designer puts the focus and through which he builds rich fabrics or with which he jalona de crystals some pieces some pieces.This work with beads gives the fabrics of an almost architectural structure - as explained in their press release - and confers them "a choreographic movement", which places them beyond the mere ornament.The crystals also decorate the socks, which dialogue with silver Lamé bodies, ethereal tulle dresses or tailor suits.
In the words of the Italian, Haute Couture constitutes "an experimentation tool" and a platform from which to question the most entrenched rules of fashion.But to obtain a substantial answer, the question must be relevant.With this collection, Chiuri raises his desire to abolish the border between art and crafts "once and for all" and underlines this intention by covering the catwalk with the works of Indian artists Madhvi and Manu Parekh, who use, precisely, an indigenous techniqueembroidery to shape its colorists paintings.
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The magnifying magnify.A strident chanel - but not for that reason, - where the dresses twenty with transparency and the tweed skirts with surgical cuts provide the electric pulse to the parade with the most ambitious staging since Virginie Viard arrived at the artistic direction of the artistic direction ofThe brand almost three years ago.Far from the catwalks with rockets about to take off or water waterfalls with which Karl Lagerfeld, his predecessor, liked epatar and conquering social networks, the French designer has opted for much more discreet formats.But on Tuesday there was a blow of effect: Carlota Casiraghi opened the parade touring a horse from a horse the catwalk designed by the artist Xavier Veilhan.Except for that little license - more poetic that effective - there is no ostentation or obvious.Luxury luxuries to crafts and details only appreciable for a sensitive or versed eye in this knowing how to do.
Contrary to what happens in Alexandre Vauthier, where the shines of the satin and seventies dazzle to hide that there is not much more to look.The Frenchman seeks to have fun, and Chanel and Dior, offer a beauty without complications.If that is what customers expect from fashion in 2022 will be said by sales figures.You just have to wait for summer.
While Roseberry, which demonstrates such a strategic vision with the needle as with the word, summarizes that for him is the reason for being of haute couture today: “Our end are not celebrities, nor do I like them, neither criticisms either.We do it because when it is well done it still has the power to move something within us ”.But, when the latter happens, celebrities, I like and criticisms come behind.In haute couture, vice versa that in arithmetic, the order of factors does alter the product.
