Noticias relacionadas
This September 16 starts the 74th edition of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid.At 11.30 in the morning IFEMA will host Oriental Dream, the new collection that the lingerie and bathroom firmAndrés Sardà presents for the spring-summer season 2022.The style has had the opportunity to talk to Núria Sardà (52 years old), its creative director, just hours after putting the work of many months on the catwalk.With enthusiasm and the tension of the moment, the Catalan designer attends to this newspaper on the phone.
Everything ready for tomorrow's parade?How are your nerves?
The nerves are always, but well we are finishing fitting with the girls.It is a very important moment also for us, so that each girl looks very good with what carries and square looks with girls and that everyone is happy.
Sketch from 'Oriental Dream', the collection presented byAndrés Sardà.Andrés Sardà
Does the opinion of the models take into account when awarding them a look?
Always.Of course.We owe women and they the first.In addition, they feel good causes them to transmit differently.They are very important part of the show and it is key that they feel what they carry.
How do unforeseen events or changes face from the team?
With a lot of waist, it is a very powerful team.A lot of preparation before to avoid unforeseen events, but there are always.We have many editions, everything has happened to us and that turtle.But well to have everything very prepared, have already tried it in Barcelona, know the girls, have a good sewing team.All this helps us.
Among the few details that have transcended, the collection is a mixture of tradition and "groundbreaking evolution".How all this is lowered in a parade of lingerie and bathroom?
We love this diversity that is still in the East and as they live with a very strong tradition, but at the same time they have such a groundbreaking and futuristic spirit.All of that coexists very well in society.Then we wanted, always in our own way, in a sardà vision, see this duality.
We do it in the first part of this entire section of underwear with all silks, embroidery, kimonos, more traditional inspiration garments.And then, one of our designers, Mao Xue, that she is China, is going to make a performance on the catwalk.From there the future begins with what would be the bathroom collection, with a much more anime inspiration, manga, very strong colors, technological fabrics, sustainable, LEDs, Charoles.We want to see that superduality on the catwalk in this way.
How was the creative process of this collection?
Always es una cuestión de equipo, de mix de ideas, de evolución, de dejarse llevar.Of not blocking ideas because of the inconveniences that may have.Many times you think things but you know there is a lot of mess to get it.We have to get all those prejudices, not put limits and always go to the maximum of what we want.Do not cut for the inconveniences that may be along the way.
One of the designs that will be seen on the catwalk.Social networks
Any anecdote that can share?
This year we are lucky that Bad Gyal will collaborate with us (24).She will open and close the parade.For us it represents this new femininity, this game, this new way of expressing and we love that you wanted to collaborate with us.
The singer is going to open with a look of the traditional part and will close it with a look of the future or the part is more manga.In addition, for this last departure L’Oréal - Summer of the catwalk - has proposed something.They are going to do a project called because our planet is worth it.And they have asked several designers that the last look is especially sustainable to support this project.
What caught Bad Gyal's attention to work with her?
It is a new way to express yourself from youth, we believe we have to listen to them and give them voice.We love being able to collaborate with her and be part of this parade.We love what he does and how he does.
Although pandemic restrictions have already relaxed something, have they affected them when carrying out the creation process?
Yes, since the covid is, he has conditioned us a lot.What is true is that it has evolved, thank God I think we are currently better than we had been.For us this must be totally behind, although we have not left it totally behind.But we have improved a lot and I hope that from here to a year it is totally behind.
We count how in 2020 we had to adapt.It was crazy, we are currently already in this new way of focusing.For us it is already overcome at the business level, although we take it into account, of course.
If I had to define the collection with three adjectives, what would they be?
Different, shocking and very feminine.
Always hay alguna pieza en la colección que para los diseñadores es especial, ¿existe esta prenda?
For me I can never choose one, because all we do are special.It is also so diverse, from the world of tradition to manga.I can't tell you just one.On the other hand, he also influences what I have told you previously: each girl later gives life to the garment.It is impressive how a garment that was the least of you liked it, when it puts it according to who and carries it according to how, it is in the end you like the most of the entire parade.That is, to say what I liked the most, we have to count on who is going to take it and how it will take it.
They have introduced recycled materials in this collection, is it important for you to bet on sustainable fashion?
Not only fashion, I think we must be consistent in everything.We are saying that this system that we lead to life, consumption, programmed obsolescence is not sustainable.Is unsustainable for me.I have said it many times this low cost has made life low cost and has filled the life of garbage.Although everyone likes to fly for ten euros to Venice, it is not sustainable.
But we believe a lot, we have made very important bets and we work in the long term for sustainability.We believe that our fashion is very sustainable because it is a close quality fashion, with European suppliers, made to last, it is not to use and throw.We think that fashion has to last, because it costs a lot to weave.
We have also changed our entire packaging, removing the plastic.We collaborate in the training of women for preparation in Spain, because one of the problems is that there were no people who sew in Spain.We are working with groups of women in difficulty and we are helping that in addition to learning the trade we can have a possibility of increasing our productions in Spain through qualified personnel.
Núria Sardàsale to greet in the parade last January.Gtres
Your staging are always spectacular.In this sense, what can we expect for this Thursday's parade?
We think that the presentation must be a show and that everyone must enjoy it very much: the girls, the public, all.We make a parade this shorter year, with 18 outputs.Each girl is going to carry a look, they will not change, that this also gives us the possibility that each model is dressed as we want, combed as we want, all the looks will be more finished and specially elaborated for each girl.Therefore makeup and hair can be much more personalized.Everyone is dressed in time, you enjoy the moment much more.And they - the models - can rehearse, look, try.Everything goes more calmly and that is also reflected in the catwalk.
Javier Peral has made us music.We have made some wallpapers to put the collection in a situation and I think that the whole team will be able to enjoy the moment a lot and all that will be transmitted.At least that's what we expect.
¿Qué significa para la marcaAndrés Sardà desfilar en Fashion Week Madrid?
For us is the culmination of proposals.It is the possibility of bringing the collection to the maximum, of dreaming everything we want.Here we have no limits to imagine special garments because not everything has to be sold.We can play this show, to this show.It is also a time when today, thanks to social networks, the collection comes to everyone, that is important.For us the main thing is that this collection reaches the maximum number of people, who like and that is the most international.That is why it is very important to be here.
Finally, when do you think the Madrid catwalk is?
I think we are at a time when we have spent a strong bump.It is not necessary to say that all this issue of the COVID has been very worker for many companies.But I think the worst is behind and that from now on we have a very important future and that we have all the weapons to get there.I think that today the world social networks and communication is so easy that we have to work all to present some very powerful collections that attract a lot of attention and make the catwalk in Madrid very strong and international.
[Más información:Andrés Sardà revoluciona la moda de baño con Megan, su última colección]
Follow the issues that interest you