Dior heart converts the catwalk into casino: from green to pink and shot because it touches me
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Parisine Fashion Week recovered its parades-spectacle with Dior, which transformed the catwalk into a huge board of board games, an excuse to color the trends of next summer with living tones and bet on minimalist lines1960.
At times, it was as if the year and a half of the catwalk had not happened: the tails multiplied around the gardens of the Tuileries to see the celebrities and models that went to the parade, within an ephemeral installation prepared forhost a greater number of guests than a hundred of the last seasons.
Inside, it was time to enjoy the fashion, colors, game and creativity of the Italian Maria Grazia Chiuri, a brand designer, who threw the sixties of the firm.
The colors allowed to reinvent each styling in several tones.Gtres
In those years, Dior emerged with the creator Marc Bohan at his forehead, who replaced the bulky lines of the 50s for purified cuts, colorful miniskirts, geometric garments and straight jackets, which Chiuri recovered with a sporty point.
Bohan called him the "Slim look" and the press then praised him for completely changing the fashion world.
If this collection did not change the course of trends or industry in general, it was a breath of fresh air and a playful view of the future, although somewhat nostalgic, in a context in which designers are pressingfind the "look" that defines the postpandemic period.
Yellow, green, red, navy blue, orange and raspberry symbolize for Chiuri the game and rethinking of the rules of art and life, as the artist Anna Paparatti defends, with whom he collaborated to create the stage.
The power of the 60s
Dior transforms the Paris catwalk into a huge game board Style |Agencies
On the catwalk, a series of gigantic boxes placed as a snail staircase, the models remained static until they reached the turn of parading, a new way of seeing the designs leaving the viewer the time of not missing a detail.
The halter neck mini -speakers with wild animals graphic prints, the boxer tissue short -type with matching gown and the bolero -type straight hunters reinterpreted in a padded effect,.
The colors allowed to reinvent each styling in several tones, ahondando en la idea del juego, aunque Dior no dejó atrás su fondo de armario: el traje de chaqueta en negro y con camisa blanca que se renueva con un pantalón de bermudas o la camisa masculina que ahora se lleva con falda negra tableada.
Also leaving the general tendency to return to natural tissues, for ecology and recycling, Dior recovered the nylon and neoprene in volumes, embroidery in three dimensions and bright tissues.
They highlighted the mini -cides.Gtres
In the shoes, the Mercedita type dancer reigned, modernized with fluorescent colors, ropes around the leg, as well as flat square boots.
Chiuri was very inspired by the work of Paparatti, icon of Italian articles in the 60s, marked by freedom, experimentation and rebellion, three of the keys that Chiuri has sought since his arrival at the brand in 2016.
These six years have been for Dior a transformation towards a much more commercial fashion, but also more feminist and claiming in their messages, which have allied Chiuri design with the philosophy of some of its references: Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, Eva Jospin, LuciaMarcucci or Tomaso Binga, among others.
The presentation of spring-summer collections 2022, started on Monday, continues this Wednesday with the proposals of Balmain or Acne, which will follow the parade tonight of Saint Laurent, the first of the brand in Paris since March 2020.
[More information: What you can never buy: Dior's most expensive dress, for four million euros]
