News, a designer over 80 years old?A brand that does not connect with modernity?No: Chanel shows his economic data for the first time and they are very, very good.Change of Era?
By Daniel Borrás
Chanel never appeared in those lists of the world's most valuable brands.It was strange appearance because the top positions were always occupied by rivals of a similar profile.Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Gucci, Prada ... but of the French Maison or Trace.The key had a lot to do with his secrecy and not so much with his real financial muscle;This Thursday they have presented for the first time in 108 years of history economic figures and are not precisely bad.It is not that I was not invited to the party, it is that Chanel was like those guests who do not go because they have another better invitation in the mailbox.In fact, he did not go on those lists because he did not want, directly: his figures are better than those of Gucci and at the Louis Vuitton level.That is your real status.
Because about Chanel there has been a lot lately and the global feeling was that we were facing a mark, say, outdated.With an octogenarian designer, apparently away from the current air of the times.Chanel is not for millennials.What was, go, like a huge stranded ship that could no longer move, like the one who took out in his parade.Philippe Blondiaux, financial head of the brand, has recognized The New York Times that it was the time to put on the table who we are, a brand of 10 billion dollars with the accounts in very good condition ".Pum, and hit that table.
In figures, the thing is more or less like this: Chanel registered sales of 9.623 million dollars in 2017, 11% more than during the previous year.In all regions of the world the benefit was higher although it is still especially strong in Europe (3.909 million of that total) and in Asia (3.751 million).The real benefit of this amount is 2.692 million dollars, which represents more than 22% compared to the previous year.There is no figure with a negative in front.Another fact that suggests the real capacity of the company is its current number of employees, 20.197 worldwide.They have made public until the current debt: 18 million dollars.
Taking as an example Gucci, which is undoubtedly the fashion brand that has grown the most in the last two years, Chanel's figures are no anecdote.In 2017, Alessandro Michele's brand added 6.211 million in sales, which meant 42% more than in 2016.One more comparison: in that same period, the fashion and leather goods division of the entire LVMH group recorded almost 15.500 million.Keep in mind that the company does not reveal the figures of its brands separately, but it is estimated that Louis Vuitton brings about 10 million to that amount as the strongest brand of the group.According to Blondiaux, in statements that the brand has officially sent to Vogue, this "financial force gives us the ability to remain independent and focus long -term strategies.We continue to invest to ensure that Chanel remains one of the most iconic and innovative brands in the world ".
It is a new strategic blow that adds to the one they already gave in 2015, when he decided to progressively match all his prices in the different countries of the world.Sometimes it is not strange to find the same product of a brand at a bit different price depending on where you buy it;Chanel matched them to avoid problems with their brand image, since the same product had different prices and a confusion was generated in the real value of these.In addition, it allowed them to lower prices in China, one of the most important potential markets for current luxury.
But beyond the figures (which also) the important thing is that Chanel has finally left his particular closed box.As if you find an old bottle of Chanel Nº5 in a closet and when opening it, it still smells exactly as you remembered.No naphthale.The reasons confirm them, although tacitly, Blondiaux's statements: place the brand inside the buyer's imaginary exactly in its real place.Why let them believe that the brand is no longer what the logo of the two C has lost validity if it is not true?Now Chanel relies on his production (from clothing to accessories through new releases such as the Gabrielle perfume, one of the successes of 2017), the legacy of Coco Chanel (perhaps the most important in the history of fashion, at leastas an iconic element) and the numbers.
The company has also revealed that this economic report will be followed by an internal restructuring in the coming months, although no more details have advanced in this regard.Does that mean that Chanel will face more powerful changes?And the one that really interests us all: will Karl Lagerfeld continue at the head of the creative section of the brand?In the last parade of Lagerfeld, the 2019 Resort collection, the designer appeared mounted on that huge ship that served as a stage with Virginie Viard, the studio designer, her right hand.Signals?We love to see signs.