Chanel can also be sexy, and this is the proof
Paris Fashion WeekByRAFAEL MUÑOZ(@munoz_rafa)
For twenty minutes we have returned to the 80's and 90's when models paraded on very high catwalks surrounded by a cloud of photojournalists who illuminated their steps with flashes: each model walks forward, stops at the end, poses and He smiles, something very rare in current parades, in which a serious and haughty attitude prevails. Chanel's parade is full of novelties and nods to the past, as Dior has done.
It has not been done in the Grand Palais but in the Grand Palais Éphémère, which has allowed the house to have a catwalk background, and has taken advantage of it to install a huge black and white photograph of the model Vivienne Rohner taking a photo: it is the black and white portrait that appears on the invitation and decoration of the show: "Because fashion is about clothes, models and photographers, says Virginie Viard. Karl Lagerfeld photographed the campaign photos himself and I now work with photographers because I love the way they look at our work."
Youth as a fashion concept
Virginie Viard, Karl Lagerlfed's successor in creative direction, continues to rejuvenate the house, advancing with each collection to a new level, less 'lady' and more 'teenager'. Youth is imposing itself again in fashion, despite the fact that the sector talks all day about diversity and inclusion. Viard uses swimwear to 'smooth' the brand's image. The swimsuit is the star piece and we see it converted into a street garment, endowed with the same aesthetic identity as a dress. We see it in white, very low-cut, over a black knit shirt and loaded with long chains as necklaces, combined with the house's two-tone ballerinas, also in black and white.
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the point of the point
Swimwear began to jump from the water to the promenade and now sneaks into day and night looks, and this appetizing versatility is only offered by accessories. There are more swimwear 'suits' that want to take center stage, such as bikini tops worn with culottes, long buttoned skirts or sheer minidresses. Knitwear is more in fashion than ever and Chanel wears it in mini dresses printed with the brand's logo, straight jackets in a very fluid tweed, sequin dresses and shorts and wide blazers as a dress. Also, in wide sweaters and miniskirts that are woven with figures of eight.
"There are also many prints: large colorful butterfly wings, on black muslin. Some silhouettes are accompanied by a large clutch bag, others by a soft metallic bag adorned with a large chain. And the heels are reminiscent of pumps. pirates", laughs Virginie Viard. "I always like there to be something romantic. A touch of mystery."
Domino effect
Black and white, together or separately, dominate the collection, but soft shades of violet and pink are not lacking, two of the colors for the coming season, according to the Paris catwalk. Alongside them we see energetic oranges, greens and yellows, which provide a playful contrast to the collection. A proposal that seems to want to enhance day looks, it may be necessary. The consequences of the pandemic are being felt: there are fewer events, fewer parties, less exhibition. Now people live and dress differently: the day is squeezed, leisure is quiet, and the firms know it.
A signature 2.0
The duo Inez & Vinoodh sign the images in this collection, which includes five films with Lily-Rose Depp, Alma Jodorowsky, JENNIE, Rebecca Dayan and Quannah Chasinghorse-Potts, all repeating the same gestures, camera in hand. “It is a magical object and a sexy gesture, which evokes so many memories. Also, I loved the sound of the flashes crackling during the 1980s shows, when the models walked on a raised catwalk. I wanted to relive this emotion again” .
Chanel is one of the firms preferred by movie stars and Penelope Cruz is one of its best ambassadors. The Spanish is doing all the promotion of Parallel Mothers with clothes from the French house and she is always ideal. Her relationship is becoming closer and the good harmony that Pe had with Karl Lagerfeld now continues with Virginie Viard. Will Penelope Cruz be nominated for Best Actress at the Oscars? Will we see her on the Hollywood red carpet dressed in Chanel?
