Young fashion designers in Spain: Almudena Chuecos
The young promise of Spanish fashion design Almudena Chuecos presents ECDICIS, her first collection inspired by the molting of reptiles
Almudena Chuecos… keep this name, because I'm sure you'll hear it much more often from now on. Well, maybe it's after another pseudonym, since the young Murcian designer based in Valencia tells us that she still isn't very clear about what her own hypothetical signature would be called. She is not in a hurry either, and at 23 years old she is clear that she wants to develop in the world of fashion as a designer no matter what, without pretensions. She now presents ECDICIS, her official baptism in the eyes of the fashion world, which is undoubtedly more than just a good start. The exquisite collection that she wanted to present to us for the first time for Neo2 is directly inspired by the term ecdicis, which literally is the process of periodic change of the cuticle of the exoskeleton of insects and other arthropods to allow their growth.
In this case, Almudena Chuecos focuses on the molting process of snakes, even including different treatments in the production of real molting garments. Apart from this literal inclusion of the concept behind her collection, with ECDICIS Almudena creates a visual metaphor in which she compares this literal shedding of skin with the changes that humans undergo throughout our lives and how this inner change influences in our outside.
We interviewed Almudena Chuecos so you can continue discovering more about this great promise of Spanish fashion and her first collection...
Almudena ChuecosECDICIS
Design: Almudena Chuecos Díaz (@almudena.chuecos)Photography: Manel Ramón (@maneldart)Models: Muriel Seiquer (@murielseiquer666) and María Aparicio (@mariaaparicio37)MUAH: Daniel Gil (@marlinmuah)Analogue photography and video: Daniel Solano ( @danislno)Artistic direction: Almudena Chuecos Díaz (@almudena.chuecos)
Interview: Angel Taranilla (@angeltaranilla)
What you like most about fashion: The ability to create and shape a concept, an experience or a feeling from scratch. In addition, I feel that fashion is a tool through which I can express myself without having to speak.
The least: The importance given to 'looking good' in front of people with a certain prestige or the obligation to fit in on some occasions for the simple fact of being able to promote my work, since because of my way of being, if I don't I feel comfortable with whom I work, I can't fake it.
Where does your passion for this world come from? I have really always felt attracted to any artistic form and it was clear to me that I wanted to dedicate myself to some discipline related to art. I chose to study fashion design because it was the branch that most encouraged me to create.
Where did you study? How was your experience in the center? I studied at the EASD (Higher Art School of Design) in Valencia. My experience at the center has been bittersweet, although it is true that I have had subjects and teachers who have given me little, I have also met great professionals throughout the 5 years at the school and from some of them I have learned a lot. The summary is pleasant in general terms since I feel that I have evolved and grown a lot as a person and as a designer and I am proud to have chosen Valencia and specifically the EASD because I feel that thanks to it I am who I am right now.
Do you prefer to continue betting on your own firm or, on the contrary, do you prefer to work for another existing one? I would love to be able to start a firm by myself from scratch, I think it is the dream of every designer, but I am aware of the circumstances and the large initial outlay that it would mean and despite being very excited, I think that at this time it would not be viable. Even so, I do not rule out doing it in the future when I find my place in fashion. Now I focus on dedicating myself to this at whatever level it is, as a stylist, creative director, or even designing small capsule collections for free and giving visibility to my work. Also, being just starting out, it may be that by working for others I can learn to get by more easily.
Do you have a name in mind for that future and desired signature of your own? At the moment I do not have a name for my signature and in the case of creating it I would think about it carefully since I think it is very important when it comes to selling your product and I should feel very identified with it.
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What is/would be the philosophy of your firm? My philosophy in general is to enjoy what I do and do it for pleasure, not out of obligation, since my creativity does not work under pressure. So I would like whoever wears my designs to do so with enthusiasm and because they really feel it. In addition to the fact that I don't like to design just for the sake of it, but rather I try to ensure that each piece has its own reason and that the designs create a 'whole'.
“I don't like to design just for the sake of it, but rather I try to ensure that each piece has its own reason and that the designs create a 'whole'.”
Who are the main references in the fashion world of Almudena Chuecos? As for current references, I like to always be looking for new talents and I don't like to stay with what the typical brands do (Chanel, Gucci...) One of my main references is Jaquemus and Area.
With which Spanish brands/designers do you feel most identified and why? On a national level, I really like Luis de Javier, Alejandre Studio, Onrushw23fh and Maria Ke Fisherman. I like the aggressive style of Luis de Javier's clothes and the shiny leather materials he uses, I think he denotes a very strong personality. From Alejandre Studio I would highlight the use of overlapping layers in some of his designs. I like the aura of Onrushw23fh that their work conveys in general, the aesthetic they have chosen and the vibe they give to their shows. And finally from MariaKe I like the use of unusual shapes on the body and that everything is so tight and that so much flesh is shown also goes very well with my style.
And from outside Spain? As I have pointed out, I like to go in search of new talents and designers who are not well-known tarans. I love Andrea Grossi, CharlotteKnowleslondon, Nensi Dojaka…
What do you usually draw inspiration from when making your designs? I am usually inspired by my own experiences or feelings and processes, since that makes me feel comfortable and identified with my designs throughout the process.
What currents/aesthetics/styles do you feel most identified with? I like asymmetric garments, the androgynous style and the fact that a lot of skin is visible, as well as the use of fabrics with different textures. I am not guided much by predefined or current styles that can pigeonhole your work. I think my style varies over time and evolves or grows just as I do as a person and designer, I don't like to focus on just a few, but I prefer to let myself flow without them influencing my work too much.
Would you like to leave Spain to continue your career in fashion? Where would you go? Next year I visualize myself in Madrid, although I don't close myself off because I know I could end up in another destination. And yes, I wouldn't mind leaving Spain, and more than a place to go, I'm moved by why I'm leaving. I would go where I had more opportunities or better working conditions to continue growing in the industry.
What do you think of the fashion industry in our country? I think that in Spain there is a lot of talent to exploit and above all to make visible, I feel that new talents are not given the place they deserve and it is our job to change that. And I am referring not only to fashion, but to any artistic field (photography, painting, music...) Sometimes we get pigeonholed into brands that already have a name and are famous and we do not get out of there instead of supporting national artists who make a good job but they are less well known.
Now you present your ECDICIS collection, what can you tell us about it? ECDICIS is a collection inspired by the process of metamorphosis and personal growth that I have been going through in the last year and a half. He defends the use of the visual metaphor of the reptiles shedding skin to give shape to that inner change I am talking about.
“This project is born from the depths of my being, from the need to materialize the process of metamorphosis that I feel I am going through” Almudena Chuecos
Why have you chosen that title? The title comes from the word ecdysis, which is the term used to refer to the molting process of reptiles.
What audience are your designs aimed at? I speak to a non-binary audience, since I believe that anyone who feels comfortable with my designs is free to wear them. Yes, it is true that I focus on a sensitive audience that values art and enjoys creative processes.
What have been the main inspirations for this collection? I wanted the moulting to be intuited in the designs, so I chose a color palette reminiscent of the world of reptiles. Then, playing with brighter and softer materials and other more opaque and rough or textured ones, he tried to refer, on the one hand, to the shedding that is shed and the new skin of a snake. In addition, the snakes begin to peel from the head and in the fashion film, at the end, one of the models tears one of the designs from the head, referring to the beginning of ecdysis.
Did you make the clothes yourself? All garments are made, patterned and cut by me. The only thing I took to sew were a couple of finishes (2 invisible zippers, some bias bindings...) And in addition to the garments, I wanted to put real snake shifts in two accessories that I also made, a jeweled bag and a pendant with the shifts inside. .
What plans do you have for this collection? I have already contacted a couple of stylists who have asked me for clothes and accessories to do some more photo shoots. So I would like to keep moving it. I also imagine collaborating with a singer to appear in a video clip.
What are your short-term plans? Are you already working on your next project? What can you tell us? As for the near future, my idea is to continue training, working and moving within the fashion industry. As I have already said, my idea is to move to Madrid and continue with my next projects. And I would love to make more collections, I haven't started anything yet but I have a pretty powerful idea in mind. I'll leave you with a clue: “what you see from above and at a great height” is a possible inspiration for my next project.
