We would have to thank the jogging to the garlic vendors and Benito Mussolini
For us it is "jogging", but for the language of fashion, "chandal" or to be more precise, the whole of pants and diver made of cotton and/or polyester that jumped from the world of sport to everyday life; and of theClub locker to our closet.
Or rather, to everyone's closet.It is that jogging no longer distinguishes ages, sexes, labor segment or social classes: it is almost a world heritage and since 2009 it has its own universal day, on January 21, so that the entire world remembers and uses it where the mostHe pleases.
In short, it is its adaptability that made it such an indispensable garment.So much so, along with chins and masks it was the most popular garment during the pandemic.When the coronavirus locked humanity, for most of the world's population the teleworking and jogging were imposed along with wallets, tacos and makeup threw a long nap.
No one disappoints jogging: politicians in Domingo Paseo, celebrities try.
Decades ago students design their own models as an identity brand indicating the shell they are about to leave.Decades ago, high -performance athletes are also chosen, both not to lose heat before entering the scene and later, at the time of explanations in press conferences.
Of garlic to jogging
No one would suspect that such a democratic garment came into the world among the garlic vendors of the Les Halles market in Paris, the largest fruit and vegetable position that the capital of France had, already in 1135.
The immense site of Les Halles only became a dozen pavilions (in 1935 they already added twelve) with iron columns holding the roofs and glass walls in the second half of the nineteenth century.
As it happens today, each seller shouted in voice on the neck what he offered and, at the beginning of the 20th century, the garlic sellers, the march d’Ail, shouted the own.As the French like, in a short time, they shortened the phrase: "Chand’ail".
And in everyone's memory, the word "Chandal" was the seller who protected himself from the cold of the early morning with a rough fabric coat like Canalé sweater.By metonymy (linguistic displacement) the garment ended up identifying the person.
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In the year 1880, in the city of Amiens-exactly where Julio Verne-El merchant Gamard lived, he began to manufacture his version of the Chandal, the same garment of Jersey, but in a finer, face and attractive version for the rich of the rich of theQuartier St..-Leu, who today is plagued with stores and coffee shops, between gardens and narrow channels.
In a short time, Gamard Chandal reached the academic cloisters of this city with Gothic Cathedral and Medieval Culture.And it was about the torso of the presumed students of the École de Santé, who at that time was only a laboratory of natural history and botanical training working in the Hôtel-Dieu.
From this city in northern France, the Chandal arrived at the university field, even on the other side of the La Mancha Canal, in the United Kingdom, and became a popular and at the same time ideal garment to identify each campus.Comfortable, flexible and warm, it was a matter of a few more years to land in the world of sport.
Meanwhile, the French soldiers took the chandal to the suffered trenches of the First World War.
From the trench to Mussolini fascism
The history of the Chandal found another faster highway towards the world of fashion: that of Italian futuristic art.It was from the hand of Florentino Thayaht, a pseudonym (palindromo, in reality, because it is a mirror word) by the artist Ernesto Michahelles who, in 1919 landed in France to study painting in the academic Ranson of Paris.
In the blink of an eye, his futuristic designs overturned to the fabrics earned him a contract in the fashion house of Madelaine Vionnet.It was there, and with the collaboration of his brother Ram (Ruggero Alfredo Michahelles) that, in 1920 he designed a new garment, "Tuta", something homogeneous and that reaches everyone.
How it happened with Chandal, the word "tuta" came from the deformation of the French "tout-of-même" ("all the same").The tuta was a prêt-à-porter for every day, low cost and for workers.It was an overall, a unique, square piece, with pockets and a central buttons line traveling the entire torso, to the waist.Women could add a belt to highlight their silhouette, but the garment was essentially national and popular, it for everyone, cheap and easy to do.
Everything was on rails, and the publication of the Tuta pattern in the newspaper "La Nazione", confirmed the dissemination and popularity that Thayaht had dreamed.
Thayaht was really a creator.The name Tuta also pointed to the letter "t" that formed the torso, supported on the rest of the garment that looked like an "a", for the leg design.That is: "your t-a".
Despite Thayaht's desire that everyone would use their tuta at any time of the day, fascism and circumstances confined their garment to the work forest, especially among the metallurgical ones, for whom a blue version later emerged (which whichWe know today), the Blú Tuta, or the Blue Chandal, as you prefer to call it.
Maybe he didn't care too much, because Thayaht was a fascist.Filippo Tommaso Marinetti, the creator of Futurismo, connected him with Benito Mussolini, so that he himself gave him the portrait he had made.From then on, the Duce supported him in everything;He even asked the design of the fascist hat.
It was a precursor in every way (he designed fabrics, jewelry haute couture, participated in fashion exhibitions, etc.).The simple and geometric design of the tuta ended up being the pattern of the "t shirt", the shirt, another great invention that something should recognize the Florentino.
From tuta to jogging
Thayaht was convinced that the creation of new fabrics and designs would lead to a new world.Therefore, it took very naturally that the famous French company of the Sports Gallito launched on the market, just one year after the graphic publication of the patterns and designs of the tuta, a new “creation”: the pants and the diver of Chandal.
The new version of the Chandal, which was launched for sale market from the firm that Emile Camuset had created in 1882, was nothing but the tutorof the buttons and, more later, with elastic fists in the sleeves.
The governing concept was identical: broad and comfortable garment for every occasion, even- at the beginning- for the sports practice of cycling, football and rugby.And then the running joined.
In the 80s, the urban tribes of the Break-Dance and the hip-hop joined not only their musical-sports practices but also made Thayaht's dream come true: they adopted jogging as a leisure garment for the whole day.
Since 2009, jogging or "Chandal pants", has an international day that pays tribute, on January 21.
