Sustainable fashion makes its way to the future with reissued designs
By Pia Rey
The space inhabited by the reissued designs is one where nostalgia and the avant-garde meet, giving rise to a new language. With one foot rooting the value of the past and an eye focused on the future, in each reissued piece the designers recover something of their essence and their history, part of what makes and made them unique. Novelty and change are qualities that fashion has sustained throughout its history and that have intensified, particularly, during the last decade. That is why I ask myself: what is the value that is given to a design in an industry that is governed by change?
By Pia Rey
‘Fashion changes but style remains’ stated Gabrielle Chanel in one of her most emblematic phrases. The style is part of what the permanent collections reveal as the DNA of sustainable fashion, and in the same way it works with the reissued designs that seek to recover the value of devising and creating a garment on a creative level. As a revolutionary and innovative act, the idea of recovering designs from previous collections to put together a new one challenges the established rules of fashion, which as we know, need to be updated. The path that many designers choose is that of introspective review, as a slow and decelerated way that leads them to reconnect with the heart of the brand, reinterpreting their own creations from a current perspective, recovering the value of their own creative process. .
Re-editing is not the same as re-designing. Here it is not a question of modifying the garment to create a new one but of recovering a design from the file and launching it in a new context. When we talk about reissued garments, we are referring to those that, unlike vintage, pre-owned or re-stock garments from a brand, retain the original design but where the fabrics or resources are updated as a result of the passage of time, many of them times elevating to the initial design.
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The reissued garments are a tribute to Valentino
The freshness and rhythm of youth were the catalyst for Rendez-Vous, the collection that Pierpaolo Piccioli presented during Paris Fashion Week. Valentino's Summer 2022 collection was a hymn to diversity, freedom and free expression where the talented Italian designer reissued archival garments from the brand from the 60's, 70's and 80's. The look that opened the show was a reissue of an embroidered blouse and miniskirt that were created by Valentino Garavani in 1968 for the collection in total-white. You could also see some dresses with flower prints from collections from the 70s and a series of high-waisted jeans that were a reissue of the same ones that Valentino made in the 80s and that Piccioli himself used in those years. To reinforce the idea of past and present, the campaign for this collection showed the past and present of these designs, with Zendaya as the inspiring muse of today's Valentino.
The Simpsons honor the path of Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga
The Simpsons episode screened at Paris fashion week was one of the most hilarious and transgressive acts Demna Gvasalia performed for Balenciaga. In addition to presenting her latest collection on a red carpet used as a catwalk, the emblematic Parisian luxury house took over the scene with a chapter starring the renowned animated family. There you could see all the characters we love from Springfield wearing a selection of iconic designs that marked the path of Gvasalia by Balenciaga. In this case, the reissue was seen as an ode to the same designer and the creations that revolutionized couture and the French house.
The reissue goes hand in hand with female empowerment in Yakampot
Yes, the reissued designs have also been seen in recent collections of brands in Latin America. One of them is Yakampot, the Mexican firm that works raising the work of artisan communities in their country in a sustainable way. Just as the textile heritage and cultural legacy are part of the heart of this firm, respect for the design and creative processes of each of the garments are also. With a campaign starring women who inspire the brand, such as the film director Mariana Arriaga and the curator Estela Treviño, Yakampot reconstructs its history with a collection of reissued garments, which are reinterpreted with new artisan details made by the women of Yakampot community.
By Pia Rey
Kostüme teaches us how to summarize 20 years of career in one collection
What better way to celebrate 20 years in the fashion industry than with a reissued collection? Camila Milessi and Emiliano Blanco, the creative minds behind Kostüme, revisited their extensive archive to retrieve a series of the brand's iconic garments they created together. The message behind this proposal is as strong as its collections: why does fashion discard designs just because of the passage of time? In this capsule collection, Kostüme vindicates the task of the designer and the creator, the time it takes to create a garment and the emotional value involved in making it. What is clear for the design duo is that slowing down, reviewing and looking to the future without losing sight of the essence and the heart of the brand are a value in itself, and a support to continue their work with more strength.