Pellicer, the aesthetic menswear firm that was conceived in the warehouse of a 'souvenirs' shop in Benidorm
SIGNATURES Its ideologue, Gio Pellicer, is a self-taught poet, publicist and designer. His debut collection is well worth a visit to his particular universe
By Patricia Moreno
From time to time, a name emerges on the creative scene that inevitably produces a general hunch. The recommendation that comes from reason suggests caution, waiting for the proposal to mature or, at least, confirm its value in three collections – those necessary to see that the good work has not been accidental, but that, with everything in favor, it will prevail. –. On the contrary, the impulse, the one that listens to the hunch and nothing else, launches to bet. Rather believe. This is what happens when you have before you a debut collection like Gio Pellicer's (Alicante, 1995), L'INSECTE. And it is confirmed when you investigate the figure of this talented creative, who as soon writes poetry –he has a published book and another on the way– as he designs a fashion collection in a self-taught way with a firm commitment to sustainability and diversity; and, incidentally, configure a universe that masterfully captures all of the above. "I think I started designing as a way to visually tangibilize the poetry and books I write and I became obsessed with the way fashion is capable of creating illusion and reverie without losing authenticity," he acknowledges to this header.
If this is his own room, as Virginia Woolf would say, in an adjoining room would be found that of Palomo Spain, a firm that he does not hesitate to recognize as a "phenomenon". He claims to admire his work and aligns himself with his mission to dilute gender boundaries in fashion and, incidentally, launch a powerful social message in favor of a healthier, more flexible masculinity and, why not, feminine -as we know. historically these binary concepts. Thus, a tribute to the queer aesthetic legacy is created. “In my head, I imagine the Pellicer man as someone introspective, mysterious and strongly convinced. Sensitive, romantic and melancholic. Elegant and, at the same time, erotic. An intellectual man, who appreciates every detail. That he seeks the highest quality, design and even something that goes beyond, without fear of exploring and redefining his masculinity, ”shares Gio, who was scheduled to launch his brand last March. For obvious reasons, the event was cancelled, so he decided to transform the presentation into a fashion film-style runway show. In this interview, we delve into the essence of this creative, thus taking us into his invented universe.
You have just presented your debut collection, 'L'INSECTE', but, looking back, what has been your path until now?
I have always been attracted to the romantic idea of creating something. At 18 I wrote my first book, L'harmonie, and I enrolled in Advertising and Public Relations. Before I graduated last year, I had already been working as a senior creative in an advertising agency in Valencia for a year. But I didn't feel totally fulfilled. For this reason, I launched my firm, Pellicer, in December 2019, almost as a need to create a complete universe and, within it, infinite atmospheres in which to get lost. A space where the client can experience and enter different spheres to create a community that feels proud of being as it is, in the most sophisticated and poetic way possible.
Did you grow up in an environment that stimulated your creativity or, on the contrary, was it something that was born from you?
I grew up in Benidorm, in the back room of a small family-owned souvenir shop that, to tell the truth, made great efforts so that I could study. Although I did not grow up in a particularly creative environment, my mother always saw something special in me and stimulated me from an early age by giving me sketchbooks and movies that made me flee from reality.
guys i learned how to force a burp out im unstoppable everyone should fear me
— Supernatural S1 EP 15 | AQuick Pg21 Tue Jul 13 14:39:28 +0000 2021
You burst into the fashion sector in a very particular context: a pandemic has shaken the foundations of the industry. How do you feel about that? What fears and illusions do you have?
It is impossible to deny that everything has changed. Everything and everything that had been established no longer works. Leaving aside the seriousness on a human and economic level that, obviously, the pandemic continues to leave behind, I think it has also shaken foundations that needed to be shaken. The pace of the fashion industry was unsustainable, and I am very happy to see that large firms like Gucci are going to bet on creating collections adapting more to creative demand than to imposed one. Facing Pellicer, I have taken it as one more challenge. Nothing has ever been easy for me, and my firm has now been living with the pandemic for longer than without it; so it is not something that obsesses me beyond the added difficulty that it entails for a launch. Therefore, my greatest fear, really, is to lose the illusion, because it is all I have.
Precisely, because of the pandemic, your presentation parade in Madrid was suspended, what did you have planned? How did it come to transform it into a digital parade?
At the end of March, the parade of L'INSECTE should have been released, which was closer to the idea of a dramatic performance than to that of a parade. I do not conceive fashion without history. I don't believe in trends either, and aesthetics alone don't work for me. My idea was to introduce the guests to the universe to which the collection belongs, and for the models to bring the characters of the designs to life. However, the harshness of the pandemic led me to rethink the way of conceiving the presentation itself and to adapt it to something that I have called a digital movie runway, which is very close to the idea of a fashion film.
Continuing with the pandemic, it has also accelerated changes that were making their way in the sector, such as sustainability and the social responsibility of firms. How is your brand aligned with this?
That it was an ethical, sustainable and responsible firm was something that was clear from the very approach of the firm and, therefore, it is essential for Pellicer. By being inside the entire creation and ideation process of each garment, from the concept, through the design and execution, to its reception by the client, we ensure compliance with all our standards. All our garments are made with natural, biodegradable, organic and sustainable fabrics as much as possible. In addition, they are made-to-order, something that allows us not only to customize each order according to the customer if necessary, but also to reduce surplus stock by 100%. We manufacture each of the pieces in Spain, in a small local workshop to reduce the carbon footprint; and we ship globally with careful and plastic-free packaging.
Likewise, in recent months we have seen the world rise up against racism. How do you integrate diversity in your project?
In my opinion, the fact of being a very small firm is no excuse for not doing everything in our power in the face of diversity. Wanting to create a community implies having a clear voice and position. For this reason, we continue to support and echo movements such as Black Lives Matter, disseminating information and links to donations and collecting signatures. From the beginning, despite working alone, I am committed to diversity and inclusion at all levels of work, because I cannot conceive of doing it any other way.
What inspiration is behind 'L'INSECTE', both the name and the collection?
Behind L'INSECTE is the search for balance through pain and beauty. In that eternal search was the fear and admiration that I have felt all my life towards insects, an internal struggle that is similar to how I have always felt about fashion design. For this reason, I decided that my debut collection would revolve around it, as a way of admitting and embracing that fear, to create something precious and poetic through it. It is designed based on old entomological books, analyzing the morphology, rarity and contrast of different insects. Extrapolating, through multiple silhouettes and fabrics such as Japanese silks, tulle, wool or vegan leather, the delicacy, aggressiveness, sensuality and elegance of each of them. The anatomy of precious and intriguing insects translated into strange gowns, corsets, matador pants, rhinestone vests or 18th century tontillos. For this reason, the parade is set in a horror party of the 20s, where strange and sophisticated beings celebrate their being and their diversity.
What business plan do you have to put the collection up for sale?
In mid-September we will make the collection available to the client in our e-boutique and it will be available made to order both nationally and internationally. But if we have learned anything from the pandemic, it is not to close ourselves off and be open to change and, therefore, to new possibilities. In fact, various showrooms interested in the collection have also contacted us, and we are studying ways to grow without giving up being sustainable.
You create a men's fashion that, in reality, oscillates between both genders very much in line with phenomena such as Palomo Spain. Do you think this designer caused a before and after in the national scene? How has he influenced you?
Undoubtedly. I greatly admire his work, and it is undeniable that he has been a phenomenon, opening new paths within the framework of both Spanish and international fashion. I think that, fortunately, there are more and more artists, magazines and firms that share this vision of liberating and blurring gender stereotypes to rewrite masculinity from new perspectives. In fact, the LGTBQI+ collective plays a fundamental role in my firm, and is a constant inspiration for it.
What other designers do you admire?
I admire the reverie of Thierry Mugler, the elegance of Yves Saint Laurent and the architecture of Cristóbal Balenciaga.
The hatter Betto García has participated in this collection creating two headdresses, how did he come about? What other artists or creative names have you surrounded yourself with in this debut collection?
I had been following Betto's work for a long time, and I was lucky enough to collaborate with him for a fashion editorial in Valencia in which Pellicer was also a part. I was looking to take the designs to another level, bringing them even closer to the idea of fantasy, iconicity and mystery that I had in my head. I shared designs and sketches with him, and he poured all his know-how into creating The Arachnid Hat and The Antenna Hat. The result could not seem more wonderful. For this collection, as in Pellicer's editorials and campaigns, I am lucky enough to surround myself with very close and talented people, such as the interior designer Alberto Molina, with whom I have worked on the entire setting and setting of the show; and Amanda and Sofía from FÉMININ Films, who have handled the recording and photography of the entire production, combining digital and analog formats, and who have helped elevate everything I do.
What are your next projects?
In the next few weeks I will publish my second book, Los Amantes, which will also be available on my website. The L'INSECTE campaign will be released and later I will launch the Spring Summer 2021 collection that I have been working on for the last few months. I would also love to be able to present my collections in cities like Madrid, Paris or New York in the future, to make what I had to cancel a few months ago a reality; and create synergies with painters, singers and other artists who inspire me.
