This Saturday from 20.00 hours The Adlib catwalk will turn 50 with the 16 -designer parade for the Baluard de Santa Llúcia.The island of Ibiza has changed a lot, just as the Adlib itself that has been reinvented with the times always faithful to the tradition and the motto coined by Princess Smilja Mihailovitch of "We saw as you want, but in style" but there are stillSome of those pioneers who planted the first seeds.
One of them is Madrid's Melania Piris, who after arriving at the island in 1973 already showed her creations in the third or fourth Adlib catwalk.This woman with contagious laugh and a good constant humor is an example for young designers who have been squeezing in addition to an open book of memories, stories, anecdotes and knowledge about our fashion.
—Avuelve to participate in the Adlib catwalk making a partner with Tony Bonet.How do you feel?
"Very happy and excited.But first of all you have to make it clear that the collection is from Tony Bonet and that I only collaborate with three pieces.But when he asked me, I couldn't tell him that I am not very happy.
"You are one of the great pioneers of those first years...
- In part yes because unfortunately we are already less of those friends and designers.Some because unfortunately they have already left forever and others because they left for the island of Ibiza.
"When was your first participation in the Adlib catwalk?"
—Well, I think in the third edition.I arrived at the island in 1973 and it took a couple of years to take the pulse to the island.But as soon as I could I already threw to design and create my own dresses.
"Do you remember how were those first garments you presented?"
"Well, sincere not much.Almost fifty years ago of that but I remember that they were mixed pieces mixed with a black background fabric with drawings and other elements and all adorned with belts.
—You are a military daughter and lived throughout Spain following his father's destinies.What led him to be a fashion designer in Ibiza?
"Discover a wonderful world.I came to wear a store but when I saw the pages dressed in their costumes in the field I was amazed.And so, one day I threw the adventure.I bought five meters of fabric, I made my first creations and for my own surprise they sold immediately.(Laughs).
"How do you remember those years?"
—Maravillosos.Incredible.You can not imagine. Nadie te ponía reglas y no había impuestos(Laughs).You bought a few meters of fabric and did almost what would like you whenever you did not harm anyone.Then, at night, you put a stop on the street and a bottle with a candle to illuminate it and sold.They were magnificent years because everything was much easier than now.
"Where did you do your creations?"
—I began in the main street in the neighborhood of the Marina de Ibiza.There he had the store at the beginning while living on Retiro Street, also in the Navy.They were different times.Everything was more different and quiet than what is now.People swept the door of their houses, painted the walls, helped the neighbor and above all there was not so much drug.
"Nostalgia for those years?"
"I don't know if so much but it is true that everything was better in many ways.Ibiza was full of seamstresses who worked great in their country houses and in the light of gasoline lamps.These were times when you barely had two or three people in your workshop to cut the patterns that were later distributed by the seamstresses that the entire island was.They were great to see them how they started with the tiptoe under the carob and then continue in their homes with their sewing machines that worked with a pedal.
"Are the great forgotten adlib fashion forgotten?"
"In part yes.".They were great professionals and fundamental pieces in the adlib fashion gear of that time.It is also true that they earned a lot of money.In fact, I know about many young people who could go to study outside the island thanks to their mothers' salary.
"How do you see the evolution that fashion has lived in Ibiza?"
—All evolution is positive if traditions are maintained.That sometimes costs.Fortunately there are five or six designers who are getting it.And the most important of them is, at least for me, Tony Bonet.Right now is the great reference of the fashion made in Ibiza.
"What does Adlib fashion mean for you after so many years?"
—What the slogan says that Smilja Mihailovitch was invented as you want, but with pleasure.In addition, it is a very important brand that has been exported to the world and has put Ibiza and its designers in the showcase.For example, to me, after the third or fourth parade I made on the Adlib catwalk, clients such as El Corte Inglés or Precious Galleries of 3 began to arrive from 3.000 or 4.000 garments.A madness for the infrastructure that had.
"And looking back, what do you have lived with?"
"The most beautiful thing for me is that I have always been able to do what she wanted, which has not always been much, and always within limits.And to be able to live on an island like Ibiza that is wonderful because nobody asked you where you came from, who you were or what your parents were.