Escapism, sport and renewed luxury: so are the collections for men presented during Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week
Marni, Armani, Dsquared2, Ferragamo and Valentino unify their parades and bet, now more than ever, by codes shared between the male and female wardrobe
Carlos PrimoPandemia has disrupted fashion calendars.And, therefore, in this 2021 many firms have decided to take advantage of the flexibility provided by digital formats and present their collections for men during the fashion week (female) of Milan, which has ended this Monday, March 1.In most cases, they have opted for mixed digital parades or formats, in which the collections for men and women share space, time and attention.In some, celebrating double parades to underline the common elements to both lines while making their divergences visible.Next, a selection of the main male collections that have been "cast" in the calendar of the Milanese week
Marni: Romanticism, vitamins and anarchy
Pandemia has divided designers into two groups, depending on the conclusion that each one extracts from the events of recent months.For some firms, the global crisis has brought a new notion of the domestic and an imperative, comfort.Hence the tracksuit, the loose cuts, the constant dialogue with sportswear, textile innovation.For others, however, the last year has triggered a claim of fashion as enjoyment and as evasion.We need to be comfortable, yes, but also dream.On that side Milita Francesco Risso, the creative director of Marni, who has conceived his autumn-winter 2021 collection as a fashion ode as a plastic, tactile and almost manual activity.Risso goes to romanticism, the Sturm und Drang and the unleashed emotionality of the romantics.And his collection is hypersensitive in an euphoric and colorist way, celebrating that, at least, in the imagination there are no limits.In the designs for men spiky in a mostly feminine parade risso claims.The colors are saturated, electric, with a red that would not have displeased Dario Argento as a conductive thread.The silhouettes move away from the canonical, without limits.
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Giorgio Armani: The teacher's repertoire
Milanés has always worked, as little, in two different universes.On the one hand, Emporio Armani, one of the first firms to understand that fashion needed sports to remain relevant among new audiences.On the other, Giorgio Armani, his homonym firm, in which he declines, season after season, his usual aesthetic obsessions.In the next fall collection there is a whole master lesson on how to reinterpret a clear repertoire.There are straight jackets of Asian inspiration, pants with hedonistic and large tweezers, velvet, silk, skin, stamped puppy.That is, all those elements that were not part of the male closet before Armani arrived in the industry.
Emporio Armani: A little fluoride
The eighties break in the season of Emporio Armani, one of the firms responsible for creating and patenting the look of the decade.Armani's sportier and technical line recovers on this occasion the fluorine tones without giving up its usual features.In the practical field, it is reflected in a handful of well -solved decisions: sweaters and shields of brilliant tones to wear with a cross suit, fallen shoulder jackets that flirt with the silhouette of the bathrobe and, of course, the house brand: garmentsSports –haquetas bómber, baseballs, hoodies - that adopt the sumptuous textures brand of the house.Attention to knit garments, with eight or spike motifs, which retake another of the firm's classics.
Salvatore Ferragamo: The future is here
Futurism is not alien to Ferragamo;Already in the origins of the brand, the founder himself used to introduce innovative materials and ultramodern silhouettes in his women's shoes.And, in some way, the creative director Paul Andrew has managed to transform all that energy into an ode to an almost science fiction world and directly inspire Gattaca or Matrix.On the male fashion side, where it continues with the collaboration of Guillaume Meilland, this inspiration is resolved in a selection of garments that resume the lines explored in their last collections: technical and professional clothing, uniforms, precision in thecut and a certain versatility that has both High Tech imagery and well -understood crafts.The color palette with preference for monochrome combinations, neat finishes and sustainable vocation deserves a separate mention..
DSQUARED2: Let's party
One of the keys to the success of the caten brothers' sign.And the mixed collection that Dsquared2 has condensed in a fashion film of less than three minutes is literally that: a selection of garments strategically thought to raise the mood in difficult times.In the masculine sector, the fitted costumes of the Italian brand adopt applications, textures and brilliant details that invite to show off, the basics of sports origin look.It is definitely not clothes to stay at home.
Valentino: a single silhouette
The latest Men's Collection of the week has come in a mixed parade held at the Piccolo Theater Strehler in Milan.There, Pier Paolo Piccioli has presented a proposal inspired by the scenic world and in which they dialogue the masculine and the feminine.Not in vain Valentino caught the attention, last January, including some men in the casting of his haute couture parade.However, his proposal for next fall is more than.The collection, called Act, is largely conceived as a shared wardrobe without gender limits.If we stick to the initially masculine garments, the pants short.
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