Dominico wins the biggest Spanish fashion award
And the next is...Dominican.The designer Domingo Rodríguez Lázaro took the greatest Spanish fashion award on Monday night, than the edition in Spain of Vogue magazine since 2012 under the name of Who's on Next (Won), something like who is the next?An award that recognizes the talent and vision of a budding fashion designer.In addition to the possibility of parading in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWM), the entrance to the Association of Fashion Creators of Spain (ACME) and the support and mentoring of the header, the winner takes 100.000 euros, thanks to Inditex's collaboration from the first edition.The jury defined his work as "of prêt-à-porter with haute couture finishes".He, incredulous and full of emotion, thanked the prize for his parents and his relatives, and congratulated his two finalist companions, Sonia Carrasco and Reveligion.“I have been in your position and get here is very important, being part of this family gives life and visibility to the project.What is to come is very large and I congratulate you, ”he says.
This was the second time that Alicante, who founded his firm five years ago, appeared at the award.But the process to obtain it culminated on Monday night began several months ago, when the applicants delivered their projects. Primero fueron seleccionados 15 y de esos, finalmente quedaron tres:Dominican (creada por Rodríguez Lázaro), la valenciana Sonia Carrasco y la sevillana Reveligion (comandada por María Rodríguez Blanco).Four months ago the three faced the great test: show their garments before a jury formed by about twenty experts, from Nuria de Miguel, director of the Madrid catwalk, photographer Miguel Reveriego, designer Juan Avellaneda or the director of ACME, Pepa Well, who assured in that presentation of the candidates that this is "the most important fashion award that exists in Spain".This 2021 stands out as president of the jury the editorial director of Vogue in Europe and director of the publication in the United Kingdom, Edward Enninful, who went to Madrid for the final gala.
That same role had been played in previous editions by such relevant figures of the industry as the designers Alber Elbaz (who died last April and to which he paid applauded tribute in the awards ceremony), Giambattista Valli and Jean Paul Gaultier or journalistsSuzy Menkes and Hamish Bowles.Enninful commented with El País after the gala - a sober celebration with just a hundred guests, which was followed by a small private dinner - that had been “very interesting” to be part of the selection process of the candidates, in which he was presentOn his last day, and praised the talent of the three young people, emphasizing the "intense link" that this prize generates among them and also unites the past generations of winners.
At the end of last June, the three candidates tried to hide their nerves in the presentation before the jury.More than an award, this is a yincana: you have to present a brand dossier (which has to have at least two years of life), then several garments and, what the three of them seems more difficult, to defend their project before the judge.As Inés Lorenzo, responsible for the contents of the magazine, explains in the doses (books, boxes, each in its format) "There is already an important part of philosophy, brand values, of what they project"."Allows tell who they are and what they would like to be.And you know who you want to see more, ”he says.While later, in the interview with the jury - with a montage on a stage, garments and a restrained, but powerful staging - they are questioned and questioned: “On sustainability, monetization, social commitment (feminism or environmental issues), Business structure, use of the prize, markets, technique, that present a business plan...”, Lorenzo lists.
Tras el ingente esfuerzo, en la entrega del lunes, el todavía candidato se mostraba exultante. El trabajo deDominican había llamado la atención del jurado durante la presentación por su seriedad y profesionalidad; el alicantino —que ha vestido a Rosalía o Lady Gaga— llegó a presentar un estudiado análisis DAFO (debilidades, amenazas, fortalezas y oportunidades) acerca de su firma.He had tried last year, but he had stayed at the doors with the triumph of Mans."Not having won was important to reflect," he said in June, in the presentation before the jury, to which he thanked his advice, which had made him "go from being a project to being a company"."I have a sales team, a more solid website...Last year I had to analyze and understand everything, it was a privilege to be here and not a game, it is my professional career, ”he explained about the great“ economic, emotional and mental effort ”, which had helped him learn that his designs,“ “Based on retrofuturism, escapism and the dreamlike "and without gender they also have to be" commercial and viable ":" I want to put my brand ".
His predecessors know the importance of this push.The first to win the award was Marcela Mansergas, Valenciana now 43 years old, who still remembers that 2012 with enthusiasm."It was smaller than now, something that started.I have never been in favor of making a catwalk, but I read it in the magazine and I saw it as an alternative, it was a way to make myself known, ”he explains to El País who has specialized in wedding costumes today."He puts you in the showcase.And we are all canine always, so in the economical it is a great help, you manage to start, you can invest.You take it very seriously, ”he acknowledges, stating that if he had not managed to win, his career would probably have been" slower "."This greatly makes your way.You call doors to call them ".
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It is endorsed by one of the recent and most media winners, Alejandro G.Palomo, creator of Palomo Spain, who four years after the award still remembers "the nerves, many, of the times" more ".For him "it was almost vital to win it" for the economic chute."I would have liked the previous year," he acknowledges now.“We were newer, cooler, but we couldn't because we had to be two years old.The next we had and told us: ‘He doesn't deserve it anymore, he doesn't need’, but he was very necessary.It was a kind of validation, from Palmadita on the back, of ‘Stay like this,” he recalls.Both meekgas and Palomo also highlight the importance of being part of what they call “The Won Family” to which other names of a generation that has renewed Spanish fashion, Juan Vidal, Moisés Nieto, Leandro Cano, Carlota Barrera and MariaKe Fisherman.
"It's always beautiful to say that you were Won's winner, who gave you that value in your country," says the Cordoba.“Look, I have had a thousand recognitions, I have a trunk full of prizes, but they do not help you to the reality of your company.It becomes very hard for young people, incredibly hard: or you come from a millionaire family or have a business plan or cost a lotof experience and, finally, it can self -finance.
Fashion is a sector of dreams and fantasy, of events and red carpets, but also a powerful industry with many mouths to feed.A sector that supposes, according to Cotex, 2.8% of Spain's GDP and in which 4.1% of the labor market is involved.Beyond cold data, it remains a place that powerfully attracts the attention of creative minds and immense talents, which need support, visibility and financing to carry out projects that are viable.The awards are a tested formula in the international industry.Among the most prominent is that of LVMH, created in 2014 and endowed with 300.000 euros, which a few weeks ago won the Albanian Nensi Dojaka;and the YSCANAM, which has awarded since 1989 the French Culture Ministry and that distributes more than 430.000 euros in four categories.In the US and since 2003 Vogue also has another award with the CFDA, the Council of designers of America, which every year helps three emerging talents with mentoring and with 400.000 dollars (about 345.000 euros) for the first and 150.000 (about 130.000) for the next two;Christopher John Rogers has won it in 2019 and other names such as Altuzarra or Proenza Schouler.In addition, there is the previous one called the International Wool Secretariat Award (in which in 1954 Yves Saint Laurent came to compete against an unknown Karl Lagerfeld, who won winner), called for a decade a prize woolmark and endowed with 100.000 dollars.
In Spain, between 2007 and 2009, the mango button was awarded, which delivered 300.000 euros to an emerging international designer.Since 2009, the Ministry of Culture fails annually the National Fashion Design Award, which has recognized such disparate designers as Manolo Blahnik, Paco Rabanne and, the most recent, Ana Locking, and grants 30.000 euros.For its part, the Ministry of Industry grants the National Awards of the Fashion Industry since 2013 with eight categories (company, designer, footwear industry, accessories...) and without economic endowment.In addition, in Madrid there is also the fashion capital award for two years, endowed with 60.000 euros and that for now have won Moses Nieto in their first edition and Oteyza in their second.
Since the creation of the Ego catwalk, the appoint.Andrés Aberasuri, founder and director of EGO, has no formal relationship with Who’s On Next, but both projects are feedback.“In the end the ego award remains to give visibility to young designers, but with that it is not worth, you need something behind.My great frustration is to put on the catwalks, but then what?It was the subject we had pending, that part of a mentor, ”he acknowledges, stating that in Spain there are lots of talent, but also“ tremendous barriers ”.
Going one step further, Aberasuri advocates establishing a state federation "that depends on the State and the Ministry of Culture";For now, the closest thing that is there is Acme, private, with an entrance fee and with a decision by their partners who accept and who does not.“Won gives them money and contact with a large editorial group;Ego has IFEMA resources as an institution;and Acme is private.The administration has to put on your part.We need someone to represent us all, not just partners.In the end we are all on their backs on each other and the victims are the designers, ”he says. La reflexión queda para futuros pero, por ahoraDominican, el 10º ganador del premio, aún tiene mucho que celebrar en su reinado de este año.And continue working to continue as an active presence of Spanish fashion for at least 10 years.
