3 sustainable designers that you should know this season
Fashion we spend with 3 of the most promising emerging designers about their sustainable practices and how they carry them out.
By Emily Chan
At the beginning of the pandemic, the fashion industry was flooded with conversations on how it could have a more positive impact on the planet, with an open letter directed by Dries Van notten in which a "reset" was requested and changes were maderadicals in the calendar of fashion week.Although promising advances have occurred, such as the appointment of the ecologist Gabriela Hearst as creative director of Chloé, the debate on fashion sustainability continues, despite the need to take urgent measures against the climate crisis.
Luckily, a new generation of brands is promoting more ecological and ethical practices, with sustainable designers in front, such as Collina Strada, Chopova Lowena, Rave Review and Ahluwalia -which recently received the Queen Elizabeth II British Design Prize for its commitment to their commitment to thesustainable practices and excellence in design.
Ver másLo que debes saber para asegurarte que tu compra sostenible valga la penaBy Pia Rey
The trend also continues between emerging sustainable designers and recent graduates, who are offering a vision of how a fashion industry more respectful of the planet could be.Here we talk to three emerging designers who defend sustainability this season and beyond.
Tolu Coker
Since he graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2017, the British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker, 27, has been released by her UpcyCled designs, which have been taken by Rihanna and Demi Lovato.This season, Coker showed his collection of men and women's clothing through a movie entitled Soro Soke: Diaspora '68' ('Soro Soke' means 'speaking' in Yoruba).
¿En qué te inspiraste en esta colección?"I noticed what is happening worldwide.What caught my attention the most when the #Endsars and Black Lives Matter protests occurred was that this is not a new conversation.He reminded me of some of the discussions I used to have with my father, and [think] about what was happening in the 60s and 70s in Nigeria and here in [London], in the diaspora.I noticed the stories of real people: photo albums and, above all, in my father's archives ".
¿Puedes hablarnos de algunas de tus prácticas sostenibles?"Sustainability is really inherent to what I do; it is part of the central practice of my way of creating.I have worked with a Spanish factory that has developed this incredible denim that significantly reduces the water used in the dye process.There are recycled shells and cuts, and many of the style pieces come from literally broken things, such as old buckles.
Often the conversation focuses on materials, but there is also the idea of sustainability and culture.When we create things and talk about crafts, do we value people behind the process, do we value the different cultures that exist?Sustainability and the possibility that people live and receive fair remuneration for their work is something that is part of my way of creating ".
Ver másLos bolsos artesanales con sello latinoamericano son una tendencia prometedora@__lynnieee I Think His Brain Broke or Sub Subject.Body Don’t Know How To Properly produces saliva
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By Melisa Vargas
¿Qué es lo próximo para ti y tu marca?"I want my brand to be more a community.Many of the projects I am focusing now consist of working with collaborative communities and approaches because it is a more beautiful and enriching way of working.We learn, we develop and grow a lot [working with] others ".
Alexandra Sipa
Romanian designer Alexandra Sipa, 23, developed for the first time her technical characteristic of converting discarded electrical cables into lace while investigating a sustainability project in Central Saint Martins.After graduating during the 2020 pandemic, his attention now focuses on growing his mark sustainably, starting with his AW21 Floral Sour collection.
¿Cuál fue tu punto de partida para esta colección?"It started organically, piece by piece, from my latest graduation collection.As I graduated during the pandemia, I couldn't do everything I wanted.I had all these ideas that I could not complete, so I put everything in this collection.I wanted to create more usable options, that's why I made all the tops that are sustainably printed ".
Utilizas muchos cables eléctricos desechados en tus diseños, ¿cómo ha evolucionado esta práctica desde tu colección de graduación?"Throughout the summer and autumn, I have been experiencing the way of making lace pieces more usable.I started with the fasteners and the bodys, combining the lace with different fabrics.In this next collection, one of the main pieces is the jeans wire lace jacket.I used to supply cables at a London recycling plant, but due to closing, I now supply me with different people on Facebook Marketplace that have surpluses ".
¿Qué influencia ha tenido la pandemia en tus procesos creativos?"When everything closed in March 2020 and we had to work from home, it showed me the resistance of the artisanal and manual process before all this.I didn't really need anything to continue creating my collection: I could easily do it at home with materials that I had already gathered.I didn't need any machinery;It was a lace that I did with my hands.I enjoyed much more because I could do it at my pace;It was much slower ".
SS Daley
The SS Daley brand, based in London and Liverpool, appeared for the first time on our radar thanks to Harry Styles, who wore the white shirt and pleated 24 -year -old designer pants in his video for Golden in October.Upcycling is an inherent part of Steven Stokey-Daley, as can be seen in his latest collection, which was designed by Styles stylist (and Emma Corrin, from The Crown), Harry Lambert.
¿Qué había en tu tablero de ideas para AW21?"My inspiration is the culture of the public school in Britain and the gay strawberry boys, really reflecting the films and television series such as Brideshead Revited (1981), Another Country (1984) and Maurice (1987).This collection is an extension of the first, it feels like the second act.This is ‘How would that boy go to the confinement?’ I think many people want to disguise and leave, and perhaps explore the eccentricity that has been lost in recent years ".
¿Cómo abordas la sostenibilidad en tu trabajo?"Working in confinement gave me time to consider the materials and resources I had.You can see the recycled tablecloths that I have done and I was lucky to have a fabric [dead] by Alexander McQueen, who supported me for my first collection.And the same goes for Katie Hillier, who has offered me her cloth leftovers and waste material to create some unique pieces.
"I also wanted to explore local industries in the United Kingdom.I spoke with two different factories and I wanted to meet their processes.All the pieces of the collection are made with natural materials from the United Kingdom ".
Ya has recibido el apoyo de Harry Styles, ¿cómo ha sido tener a alguien tan popular defendiendo tus diseños?"It's a career change.The weight of the celebrity means a lot, combined with the important role played by social networks.[Styles] has provided me with a platform, it is huge that he and Harry Lambert have supported me.It is great that someone who works sustainably can now have that platform and move on ".
